Shooting with wiring is just about complicated. photography lesson. Shooting with wiring

Many people know that when using a slow shutter speed, pictures can turn out blurry. This effect can be used to the benefit of the composition when taking photos with wiring. This shooting technique allows you to get incredible shots filled with dynamics. In order to learn how to take such photos, you need to know a little theory and practice as much as possible.

The whole point is that during the exposure of the frame, while the shutter is open, the camera must move behind the subject at the same speed as he does. This will make the main subject sharp and the background blurry in the direction of the camera.

The easiest way to take pictures is panning, shooting objects whose direction of movement and speed you know in advance, or at least it is easily predictable. Otherwise, the object will be very difficult to follow, and it will turn out to be smeared.

How to take pictures with wiring?

• The shutter speed should be set longer than usual. It will have to be selected experimentally. It's better to start with 1/30 of a second. Shooting should be done in shutter priority mode or manual mode. The slower the shutter speed, the longer the wire stripes will be, but the main subject will be harder to sharpen.
• Having decided on the subject, you should find a place for photographing, where nothing will interfere with the view. Of course, you should take care of the background of the picture. although the background will be blurred, random human figures or inharmonious colors can spoil the picture.
• Perform smooth wiring. Then, when the object appeared in the field of view, you should catch it in the viewfinder, hold down the shutter button and move the camera after the subject for a while. For a smoother shot, you can use a tripod or monopod.
• It is easiest to shoot from the side of the subject.
• Autofocus. In the event that the camera has a tracking autofocus function, and it works fast enough, you can use it.
• If the camera's autofocus cannot work under these conditions, then you will have to foresee where the subject will be and focus the camera on this area.
• After pressing the shutter button move the camera smoothly following the object. You need to turn not only the head and the camera, but also the entire torso above the waist. Feet should be firmly planted on the ground so as not to stagger. The shutter button should be pressed gently to minimize camera shake.

Another option for shooting with wiring.

Sometimes good pictures are obtained by using the flash during panning. This works especially well when photographing in low light conditions. The main advantage of using a flash is that the subject appears brighter than the background and thus stands out better in the picture.

When photographing with flash, the main thing is not to light up the subject and not make it stand out too much. To do this, you need to adjust the flash output.

Practice shooting with wiring

It will not be easy to immediately achieve good shooting results with wiring. Most likely, the first photos will be unsuccessful. Then, when you understand how to move and how to set up the camera, the pictures will get better and better. It is best to practice at sports competitions or just standing at the edge of the road. remember that the subject does not always have to be perfectly sharp. A slight blur of the subject being photographed will only emphasize the dynamics depicted in the photo.

Panning shooting is a technique where you pan the camera in sync with a moving subject.

This method of shooting allows you to focus on the movement of the subject. Ideally, everyone wants to get a photo with a motion blurred background and a clear subject. Although sometimes photographers show movement by making a dynamic subject blurry, this artistic technique is used much less often.

For this shoot, you need to know the basics of exposure and understand the relationship between shutter speed and aperture.

In this article I will show you how to shoot moving cars. With people, everything is the same - only easier.

Excerpt

In shooting with wiring, shutter speed rules. I always use shutter priority, in this mode I can be sure of the degree of background blur.

The shutter speed is selected depending on the speed of the object. And it depends on how blurry the background you want to get.

Diaphragm

As you know, aperture is directly related to shutter speed. In this case, we are working with relatively slow shutter speeds, which results in a closed aperture. This is not a problem, a large depth of field will help us keep more details in the frame. And it will cover a little from small autofocus errors.

Using aperture priority, you run the risk of getting a spread in shutter speeds from 1/15 to 1/60 (for example, if a truck with a very dark or light body passes against the background of the subject).

Tripod

If you're filming car movement, a tripod (or monopod) will help eliminate vertical shaking by making sure the camera only rotates horizontally.

autofocus

When shooting with wiring, the use of tracking autofocus is very helpful. As you know, the camera focuses best on the center focus area. Therefore, tracking autofocus is better to use when shooting people than cars. A face is easier to focus on than a fast-moving subject, which is rather monochromatic, making it difficult for the focusing system to work.

For shooting cars, it is convenient to use manual focus - it eliminates autofocus errors. Focus on the place where the car will pass, follow the car and press the shutter in the right place.

Burst shooting

Sometimes burst shooting helps. Why sometimes? When a car flies past you, fractions of a second can catch a good frame in one case, and miss a crop in another.

Whether shooting with manual focus or using AF tracking, continuous shooting will really increase your chances of catching a great shot. But if you use single-frame focusing, it is simply pointless.

Stabilizers

The stabilizer in the lens (or camera) will not change the situation much. But if you have it, it will not be superfluous. After all, the movement of the camera, even on a tripod, is not perfectly smooth, but goes in small jerks, and if you do not use vertical vibrations. The stabilizer will dampen vibrations and make the frame smoother.

Contrast

If the photo above seems boring to you, don't think you can save it in Photoshop. Try to highlight the car in the frame not only due to the movement, but also the light contrast.

Choose a shooting location so that the background behind the car is bright, but better lit by the sun. Set the metering to point metering and shoot only dark cars. For example, dark red, and better and faster - black. The camera will measure the light on a dark object, and the background will be overexposed. As a result, you will have a frame with a clear car, a light background, and plus there will be a sense of movement. See the following example.

I shot this moving car from a distance of several tens of meters to focal length 70 mm and shutter speed 1/30.

As you can see, the depth of field is not great and the car turned out to be sharp only in the center, closer to the edges - blurring is slightly visible.

At shutter speeds of the order of 1/30, the depth of field is not very large, especially at large focal lengths.

Bottom line - practice more

There will be a lot of bad shots. Remember - the result depends more on your experience than on a tripod or stabilizer. The main thing is to feel the movement in the frame, and with experience you will definitely learn this.

Panning serves two technical purposes (transmitting movement in the frame, separating the figure from the background) and countless artistic purposes. In a simple case, when panning, the camera moves after a moving object, as if “following” it. No special technical means for such shooting is usually not necessary, but there are a number of tricks that are useful to consider. I will start with the types of "wiring", including exotic options, then I will talk about camera settings, and I will finish with "tips & tricks" - practical advice.

Types of filming with wiring

The terminology is mine, and in my opinion, it is not so important. At least call it a load, the main thing is to take it off well.

Classic wiring. The object moves, the camera pans behind it. For example, you pull out the camera, point at the carriage, and, continuing to turn the lens after the carriage, press the shutter release.

A variant of the classic, but for rotating objects, like a Ferris wheel or gymnasts doing somersaults. In this case, the camera is fixed on the center of rotation, and rotates along with the object. Good for stationary objects too, in which case you move the camera around.

The object is still, the background is moving. , shooting another moving car from a moving car, etc. It is a bit controversial to attribute all this to wiring, but there is a lot in common with the classics - both in terms of the goal of conveying movement, and in terms of camera settings.

"Anti-wiring". The object is stationary, but you are moving. For example, you are sailing on a boat, and a beautiful stone proudly stands on the shore.

Zoom wiring. The subject is moving towards or away from you, and you lock onto it and move the zoom so that the subject is always the same size.

Camera settings

The three main goals of all settings are: 1) during the exposure time, the background should have time to move so that it looks beautifully blurred; 2) the object itself must be adequately exposed; 3) the object shouldn't be too blurry - ideally no blur at all.

Therefore, in most cases, the shutter priority mode is useful for shooting with wiring: “Sv” / “Tv” (you can read more about all modes). The shutter speed is set, depending on the scene, from 1/150 to 1/2 second. You can add Auto ISO, this will give more flexibility in terms of guaranteed exposure - if suddenly even at an open aperture it is too dark, the camera will increase the ISO and save the frame. Aperture is usually not very important, the background is already blurred by movement. Noise is also not particularly scary and invisible even at high ISO.

If you set the shutter speed too slow, the background will blur into an uninteresting mess, and the object itself will also be cloudy due to its own movement and shaking camera. Manet will approve with a creak, the rest will not. If you set the shutter speed too fast, the subject will be clear, but the background too - which again is not interesting. In some cases, whatever shutter speed you set, everything is bad - for example, severe breakdance on a dark background. In this case, you can use the flash.

A few examples along with an estimated shutter speed:

• The movement of the continents is millions of years.
• Growing child - months and years.
• Growing flower - days.
• Turtle - 1 - 2 seconds.
• Woman with a stroller - 1/3 - 1/5.
• A spoon that is brought to the mouth is 1/5 - 1/10.
• A person walking at normal speed - 1/8 - 1/15.
• Falling rain or hail - 1/20 - 1/30.
• Runner - 1/20 - 1/60.
• Cyclist, roller - 1/30 - 1/100 (if nimble, you can do more).
• A flying dart in darts is 1/60-1/100.
• A car traveling at a speed of sixty kilometers per hour is 1/150 - 1/300.
• Taking off plane - 1/500 - 1/1000.
• A spaceship flying past - I think the limiting factor here will not be shutter speed, but the speed at which you can move the camera manually.
• Elementary particles in the accelerator - it's better to photoshop.

Of course, in a particular scene, you have to experiment and find the optimal speed yourself.

Everything can be removed with wiring. At first, I only shot classic scenes, running people, motorcyclists and the like. Then he grew bolder and began to take pictures of people walking slowly, even mothers with strollers. And, in the end, he completely blossomed, removing motionless stones and mugs on the table with wiring. Try!

JPEG or RAW- here to whom it is more convenient in terms of . My opinion: Jpeg or reduced RAW is usually enough (many cameras allow you to shoot in all sorts of sRAW). RAW is useful for "saving" shadows and highlights if something goes wrong. And something can go wrong in such difficult shooting conditions very often. But the large size has never come in handy for me: no matter how you hold the camera, the sharpness of the object is still not the best. So why waste megapixels on blur?

At Canon I made a separate "custom" setting for wired filming. These are Tv (shutter priority), AutoISO, sRAW, spot metering, +1/3 ev overexposure, and high-speed shooting. I set the settings to C3, the very last position of the dial switch, so that if the plot suddenly jumps out, you can instantly switch it to the desired mode without looking at the camera and shoot a series with wiring.

mentioned above high speed continuous shooting convenient - a single frame is rarely of high quality, but you can almost always choose something good from a series.

For continuous shooting, it is better to put fast card. In order not to gnaw on body parts, looking after the outgoing story, while the camera painfully slowly pours the series onto the flash drive.

Overexposure by a third - two thirds of a step so that the background is lighter, ideally it goes almost to the top key. It seems to me more aesthetically pleasing, and saving shadows is more important than saving light. But here someone behaves like exposure metering, maybe underexposure will be needed. It is also important not to overdo it, if the background is just white, then why was the wiring done?

In the case of "classic wiring", it is convenient to fix the camera in the “triangle” from the hands and turn behind the object with the whole body, together with the camera. This provides greater stability and uniformity of rotation.

First, throw up the camera, you start to lead it after the object, then smoothly, like a trigger, press the shutter button. You gotta squeeze the trigger, Harley. Don "t yank it. It" s not your dick. Squeeze it. ©

zoom wiring it is more convenient to do with lenses that are zoomed not by rotation, but by “trombone”. But it’s inconvenient to do wiring with telephoto cameras, and I don’t know “trombones” - wide-angle ones, so it’s inconvenient to do zoom wiring with nothing.

"Reverse" wiring is not necessarily done from a car or train. You can walk parallel to a moving object and or in front.

If you went hunting for wiring, wide-angle(and even a fisheye) is more convenient than a telephoto.

crop better with a margin - later edit.

See off not only rectilinear, but also diagonal and any other movement.

Stabilizer helps a lot with the lens. Monopod too.

Blenda. This has been said many times, and I will say it again: a hood is needed. Especially when shooting with wiring. It's one thing, single frames, when in principle you see glare and can take them into account. Another is when the camera rotates back and forth, and there is simply no time to evaluate the light picture. The hood does not guarantee the absence of "hares", but reduces the risk of their occurrence.

If you are not sure in autofocus, put your camera in M ​​(manual) mode, stop down to f/8-13, set Auto ISO, and use the wide-angle with autofocus off, focused at some reasonable distance. But in my opinion this is rarely needed.

If you are filming with a wire immovable object, then the camera can fly in your hands as you like - provided that the lens is always aimed at one point of the object. live view it helps a lot here.

On a bright day, at shutter speeds of the order of fractions of a second, even at ISO 100, the maximum aperture may not be enough, and the frame will be overexposed. Use ND filters- Cokin, Lee or something like that. Or ask to cover the Sun with clouds.

Nobody forbids using it when shooting with wiring outbreak- monopulse or even stroboscope. As a rule, a more attractive result is obtained when synchronizing with the second curtain (the flash does not fire immediately, but when the shutter is already starting to close, from which a realistic motion blur is obtained in the frame with fixation of the last phase of movement). LED lamps are also suitable, with the adjustment that, unlike the flash, they will give a greater sense of the continuity of movement.

The phases of movement in a series with wiring can be combined in Photoshop in one frame, getting an exotic version.

Series filmed with wiring, convenient group in Lightroom using Auto-Stack (Photo: Stacking: Auto-Stack).

So, my first photo article in my life about photography with wiring (do not judge strictly). Personally, I really like these photos: looking at them, you can’t say that it’s a cool photo by chance! It can be seen that the author got confused, read articles or watched videos, trained, gained experience ...

Panning photography is one way to show movement in a frame. The technique is as follows: during the period of time when the exposure occurs (the shutter is open, the light hits the matrix), the subject and the camera move at the same speed, along the same trajectory, in parallel planes. The result is a sharp subject, and the background (especially if it is not uniform, such as a wall with graffiti) is very effectively blurred.

How to shoot? We place the subject at the starting point A, it will move to point B (and then back from point B to point A), and you yourself are at point C. All 3 points form an isosceles triangle. We become more stable, holding the camera firmly with both hands. I would suggest, for starters, just follow the subject through the viewfinder. You need to move with your body, trying to keep your hands / head / camera still. When you are sure that surveillance is working, start filming!

About the numbers: in this technique, priority is on shutter speed. AT smart books it is written that its value is set in the range from 1/125 to 1/8. In my opinion, after a little practice, everyone will choose a comfortable shutter speed for themselves. Personally, it's most convenient for me to shoot with 1/40 plus / minus. When we decide on the shutter speed, we set the aperture and iso according to the metering (or instinct). If the camera has a tracking focus function (in the all servo canon) and the ability to shoot bursts, be sure to use these extremely useful options for us.

So, everyone is in their original positions, we command the object “Start”, and we start moving along with the model. We press the shutter button a second after the start of movement. While watching your model through the viewfinder, enjoy the wonderful sound of the shutter clicking. Well, and then, one more time ... and another ... and, after 50 frames, successful ones will begin to come across. And then after 20. And then in every episode. Usually, good frame- this is the 2-3 frame of the series.

The technique of photography with wiring is far from the simplest, even 1 successful shot out of 100 will be a small victory and an undoubted reason for pride).

So, if you want to take a really cool photo, model wives/husbands/friends with cars (and if your friend happens to have a Cadillac Eldorado of the year 59, then call me;), brothers with mopeds, children with bicycles and scooters and go for it! Well, viewers, just enjoy good photos, because now you know that this is not just a randomly successful shot, but the work and diligence of its author) Good luck to everyone!

Earlier we wrote about such camera settings as shutter speed and aperture, and gave some recommendations for their use.

This article - will be devoted to shooting moving objects - using the so-called "wiring", and this topic is a particular example of using slow shutter speeds.

This technique allows you to get amazing results, although much of it depends on skill and experience. And, of course, you will gain experience - in the process of filming!

The essence of the technique is that you "follow", "swipe" the lens behind a moving object for some time, because of which the object itself remains in the photograph - sharp, clear, and the background - blurry. And blurry - not just anyhow, but very characteristic - most often the background turns into a mass of long lines - oriented in the direction of movement of the object / photo model. What an unusual bokeh"- very cool enhances the feeling of movement and speed in the photograph. It is especially good to shoot in this way - cyclists, cars, trains - in motion ...

Photographing with wiring. Motion Blur Frozen fromMariano Camp
Exposure 0.033 sec (1/30)
Aperture f/32
Focal Length 50mm
ISO Speed ​​200

Panning is the easiest way to get good results - shooting objects that move in a linear, predictable path and at a predictable speed. Otherwise, it will be difficult for you to make high-quality "wiring", and the "object" being shot will most likely turn out to be blurry. Therefore, it is so difficult to shoot with wiring - people.

Running Man. Taken with wiring. The Runner from Hamed Saber ©
Exposure 0.013 sec (1/80)
Aperture f/4

Shooting with wiring - how is it done? A simple algorithm of actions.

• Select a shutter speed that is slower than usual. Start with 1/30 second and then experiment with slower shutter speeds. To do this, use either manual mode or the "shutter priority" mode of the camera ( TV). Depending on the light level and the speed at which the subject is moving, you could end up using anything between 1/60 and 1/8s. You can, of course, make the shutter speed even 1/2 second, and even slower, but then the likelihood that the entire frame will be blurred increases many times over.
• Stand in a place where nothing will interfere with your view of the subject. Also take into account the background of the picture, choose it - prettier. Although the background will be blurred - its unfortunate colors, or weakly blurred figures of people - can spoil the impression of the photo. Usually, the best results are given by a more or less uniform background - for example, the foliage of trees.
• Smooth wiring. When an object appeared in the viewfinder field, you should press the shutter release and move the lens for a second - behind it - as if glued. In order for the wiring to be more "smooth" - you can use a tripod or monopod.
• For best results - you may have to adjust your location - relative to the subject of photography. The easiest way to shoot is if you are standing on the side of it.
• Using autofocus. If the camera focuses quickly and supports the tracking focus function, you can use it.
• If your camera does not have fast enough autofocus, you need to first focus the camera on the place where the object of the future photo will be located - at the moment when you press the "start" shutter.
• After you have pressed the shutter button(and do it as gently as possible to reduce camera shake) still feel free to move the lens even after the shutter has released. This will help make the frame even better, because. Your wiring will be more "smooth". For even greater smoothness of movement - if shooting without support - turn not only the head and camera, but also the entire upper torso.
• The burst mode may be useful.

An additional option for shooting with wiring.

Sometimes, wonderful results - can be achieved - shooting with wiring, using a flash. Especially - if the shooting is carried out in low light conditions. Much here depends on the power of the flash. The effect is mainly expressed in the fact that the subject is not only distinguished by clarity, but also by brightness - and the background is lit worse, remains darker.

Shooting with wire and flash. Cortland Hare Scrambles II by jdanvers ©
Exposure 0.02 sec (1/50)
Aperture f/4.0
Focal Length 32mm
ISO Speed ​​200

Keep in mind - that sometimes you will have to adjust the flash output, for example, reduce it by half or three times! Also look in the settings of your flash - the ability to use the "strobe" function - this setting can also affect the result.

Errors when shooting with wiring

The two biggest mistakes:

1. Unfortunate background merging with the subject
2. objects standing between the photographer and the subject, which interfere with getting the most "clean" frame.

Shooting with wiring and experience...

If you have not previously photographed in this way, then it is likely that you will not achieve success from the first frame. Don't despair, experiment!

It can be quite fun! And at the same time, it's difficult.

If you are lucky enough to be a spectator at an event with the right subjects to photograph, such as racing cars, beware of taking pictures EXCLUSIVELY with wiring, take pictures with a fast shutter speed as well - then you will definitely not leave disappointed, and get a variety of photos.

You can practice panning shooting, for example, standing by the highway. Cars passing by are perfect "targets" for such shooting!

Not always the main subject of your photo will turn out perfectly sharp, but often - this is not required, a slight blur of the object, sometimes, also enhances the feeling of speed.

Good luck with your experiments in shooting with wiring!