Why does the camera write that the lens is not attached. Using Soviet lenses on budget Nikon SLR cameras. Optical scheme of the lens

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Close-up and macro photography continues to be popular among photographers different levels. Them practical use includes detailed subject photography, food photography and technical illustrations (see photo below). But the creative impulses are undeniable; flowers, insects, creative abstraction and the excitement of discovering new worlds in everyday things.

Images of food and recipes are just as popular as event photos. Here, a close-up of a mouth-watering cupcake is the context for the macro shot that follows. This well illustrates how close-ups and macros can grab the viewer's attention and capture the imagination.

Here are three of my favorite and inexpensive techniques, which are described in more detail in my e-book"Introduction to close-up and macro photography".

flip your lens

If you would like to start right now, this technique works great and doesn't require any additional investment. All you need is a camera that uses interchangeable lenses(most DSLRs fit). Just remove the lens from the camera and hold reverse side to get a high degree of magnification. Any lens will do the job, but the standard lens or the one that came with the camera will work best (eg 50mm or 18-55mm).

While this is an effective solution, you should be aware that your camera and lens will not be able to interact with each other while using this technique. This means you won't be able to adjust aperture or autofocus. Luckily, focusing won't be a problem, and you can set your lens to the desired aperture using the aperture lock, which I'll cover next.

Here are the steps to apply this technique:

• Press the release button on your camera's lens to release it from the mount;
• Flip the lens over so that the front is facing the camera mount;
• Gently attach the front of the lens to the camera mount ring and hold in this position while shooting as shown in the image below;
• As with most macro photography solutions, the way to focus on a subject is by moving the camera and lens closer to or further from the subject, rather than by turning a ring. You will be able to focus two or three inches away from the subject (or less).

The 18-55mm lens is held back to the lens mount on the camera.

Reversible rings

You can also use an adapter called a reversing ring that allows you to actually attach the lens to the camera with the reverse side. This inexpensive device (see image below) is screwed onto the front of the lens like a filter. The other side of the reversing ring connects to the lens mount on the camera. When purchasing a reversing ring, make sure it matches the size of the filter (thread diameter) but also the size of your camera lens mount.

Reversing ring mounted on an 18-55mm lens with a filter thread.

blocking diaphragm

When you use the manual lens technique or reversing ring, you can set a specific aperture even if your lens is not electronically communicating with the camera. This method may not work for your particular camera and lens combination, but it has worked with all the DSLRs I've used:

1. After turning on the camera and attaching the lens in the normal way, set the aperture.
2. Press and hold the depth of field preview button.
3. While continuing to hold this button, press the lens release button and remove it. The aperture will remain the same as shown below.

Fixed aperturef/16 on an 85mm lens.

Other budgetary ways do macro

Other ways to get good close-ups or macros on a small budget include using connector rings, diopters, and extension rings. Here is their brief overview:

Connecting rings:

A variation on the inverted lens technique is to use two lenses connected face-to-face using a type of adapter called a coupling ring (below). In this case, one of the lenses is attached to the camera in normal mode, and the other in the reverse position. The connecting ring is threaded on both sides and is placed on the front of both lenses on the filter thread. Since the connector ring is the same diameter on both sides, the lenses you use must be the same diameter, or you will have to add a reduction or enlargement adapter for one or both lenses.

Connecting rings: (A) connecting ring with a diameter of 58 mm. (B) Two lenses connected with a connecting ring. Or lens maybe to be installed on the camera.

Be aware that a heavy lens attached to a lighter (or less robust) lens mounted on the camera may cause damage to one or both lenses due to weight or load on the front. Also, a lens attached to the camera will maintain contact with the camera, but a reversed lens will not, so you will have approximately the same limitations as with a single reversed lens.

Diopters:

One of the most simple ways To magnify an object is to use a simple filter-like contraption called a diopter (below). You can think of diopter like a magnifying glass for a lens. It is very easy to use them; simply screw one or more diopters onto the lens as you would with a filter. A set of inexpensive diopters (usually no more than $15) will give you several levels of magnification to choose from. You will need to get very close to the subject and the optical quality will not always be as good as the other options presented here, but you can be very pleased with the result. Given the low cost, ease of use, and small size, you might want to consider purchasing this set. When purchasing, make sure that the diopter matches the filter thread diameter of the lens with which you plan to use the diopter.

Diopter: (A) This set of production dioptersVivitarwas purchased for less than $15. (B) A 10x diopter is attached like a filter to this 18-55mm lens.

Extension rings:

Finally, my favorite solution for budget macro photography; extension rings. Your lens attaches to one side of the extension ring while the other side attaches directly to the camera. Extension rings effectively increase focal length your lens without adding any optical elements that may reduce optical quality. With their help, your lens will be able to focus on very small objects and very short distances.

While a good set of extension rings costs significantly more than a set of diopters, it still doesn't compare to the cost of a macro lens. Some kits have manufacturer-provided electrical connectors that allow the camera and lens to communicate normally; this allows control of aperture and focus. Plus, your one set of extension rings will work with all lenses; no need for different size rings or adapters for each lens diameter. Extension rings are sold as a set in various lengths for different magnifications. They can also be combined (stacked on top of each other) for greater magnification, as shown below.

Extension rings: (A) three extension rings (13mm, 21mm and 31mm) mounted on an 18-55mm lens.(B)Kit extension rings. (C) 50mm lens with all three extension rings mounted onDSLR.

The color combination, detail and depth of field of this photograph, the image of the pollen covering the anther of a flower, can only be conveyed using macro photography. Excessive close-ups and macros give you the opportunity to discover amazing beauty in places that our eyes might miss.

In this article, I have provided only a small part of the ways to achieve quality close-up and macro photos. I encourage you to explore the possibilities of using one or more of these techniques, as well as other types of macro equipment and lenses. The world of macro just has to be your next photography craze!

At first glance, it may seem that the era of analog photography is gone forever. Who needs film now, with which each press of the shutter release is imprinted in the head with the price tag of developing, printing, scanning and the cassette itself? Only collectors and rare enthusiasts. But in terms of image quality, old lenses often
surpass modern "whale", and sometimes expensive "fixes". Moreover, using "Helios", "Industars" and "Jupiters" is not at all difficult with current cameras.

What you need to know about lenses and cameras

First of all, you need to remember such a characteristic of the camera as "working distance". This is the distance from the sensor (or film frame) to the plane of the lens mount. It is possible to install a lens with a large working distance on a camera with a smaller one, but vice versa - no, since the lens would have to be recessed inward. For clarity, I made a table of working segments of different systems. "Bold" highlighted the most common m39 and m42 systems, for which the lion's share of lenses was produced in the Soviet years. Please note that for the m39, lenses were made for both SLR and rangefinder systems. You can't use rangefinder lenses on DSLRs.

If you install, for example, an m42 system lens with a working length of 45.5 mm, on a SLR Nikon systems F (FX, DX) with a segment of 46.5 mm, then you can take pictures, but focus on infinity - no, which, you see, imposes a significant limitation. Due to the long working distance, the Nikon F camera is the most inconvenient in terms of shooting with old lenses.

Another option is preferable - Canon EF, it has the shortest distance among all modern SLR systems, equal to 44 mm, and Pentax K, which has a longer distance, but, firstly, it coincides with m42, and secondly, for "pentaxes" There are the most simple and convenient adapters. About them and will be discussed further.

Adapters for different systems for connecting lenses to cameras

I'll start with Pentax K, because to install old manual lenses on all modern manufacturer's DSLRs, as well as on the K-01 system model, you can use a simple mechanical adapter, for example, from Jolos.

There are also "native" Pentax adapters, their difference lies in a special latch. The Pentax system is good for working with old optics also because some old lenses were originally produced with a K-mount, and it was this type of mount that was in the latest generations of Zenith cameras. There are many such lenses, I personally know 45 models. It is convenient in them that the “jump” of the aperture operates and automatic exposure metering is preserved. Everything looks like this: set the desired aperture value with the ring, focus on the open “hole”, then press the “green button”, which, by the way, only Pentax has, after which you can press the shutter release. With threaded lenses, metering also works, but you will have to open the aperture to focus (if such a desire arises) manually. Whichever option you prefer, autofocus confirmation, exposure metering, and the rest of the automation will function, except, of course, autofocus. You need to shoot either in aperture priority mode or in full manual mode, since the camera does not know what aperture you have set.

All other popular systems, including Canon EF, require special adapters with so-called dandelions.

Such devices consist of mechanical and electronic parts. If you install just a mechanical adapter, even observing the working distance on Canon EF, Nikon F, Sony Alpha, - Focus confirmation and some other functions will not work.

What affects the "picture" of the lens

It is the lens that forms the image that falls on the camera's matrix, so its importance cannot be overestimated. What elements can be used to create a particular picture?

Optical scheme of the lens

The image is formed by lenses arranged in blocks according to a certain scheme. It is curious that most modern lenses (if not all) have optical designs calculated a long time ago (you can read about this in an article about the history of Carl Zeiss). The changes are minor.

Type of lens glass in the lens

At one time, it was the quality of optical glass that was the limiting factor in the manufacture of devices. After all, not only the matrix has a resolution - the detail, sharpness of the image directly depend on the quality of the optical glass.

By the way, some old lenses (before 1972) have increased radiation due to the use of thorium glass. Such lenses do not pose any danger - alpha radiation of such a low intensity is shielded by human skin, and it can only be measured at a distance of up to 10 cm. Examples: Super Takumar 35/2 second version, Takumar 50mm f / 1.4 (m42), Kodak Ektanar 90mm f /4 (1958-1962), Canon FD 35mm f/2.0 (manufactured before 1970) and many others.

Subsequently, the use of thorium dioxide was abandoned in favor of a less radioactive rare earth metal - lanthanum, which, in particular, is used in Industar-61 L / Z (the letter "L" just indicates this).

Number of blades and aperture shape

It is believed that the most correct form of the diaphragm is a circle. To form it, you need a large number of petals. The same lenses were often produced in different versions with different numbers of petals, you can pay attention to this.

What is the shape of the diaphragm? For example, on the bokeh, that is, the blur zone. The shape of the aperture is visible on all light sources that are in the blur zone. In addition, the number of angles when the aperture is closed will be displayed in the rays emanating from the light source in dark time days.

However, a smaller number of petals sometimes gives an excellent result. The diaphragm of the lens "Industar-61 L / 3" has a very characteristic shape, for which it even received the nickname "ninja star".

Enlightenment

An anti-reflective coating is applied to the outer lenses of the objective in order to improve light transmission through a special film. In practice, this gives an increase in contrast and resistance to backlight. However, the presence of enlightenment does not replace the need to use a hood.

What lenses to look for

There are many old lenses worth buying. Although there are ordinary models that you can use simply because you have them. Of course, I am not able to cover the entire parkoptics, but I will only share my impressions of the memorable models that I want to recommend for purchase.

Firstly, this is one of the most popular lenses, produced not only in the USSR, but also in the world! The model was created on the basis of Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar 2/58 and was manufactured at several factories at once (KMZ, BelOMO, Jupiter) from 1958 until 1994. There are many model options. There are m39 and m42 threaded versions, a K (Pentax) bayonet version, as well as a number of specialized ones that are not easy to install on modern cameras without significant intervention in the design.

"Helios-44" uses the "Planar" optical scheme, the lens is very good for shooting portraits due to its softness. It has a characteristic swirling bokeh. Soft wide open and quite sharp from f/7. Considering that it is easy to purchase for almost a penny (the prices for threaded modifications are about 1000 rubles), it is a must-have.

Made according to the Tessar optical scheme, due to which it has amazing sharpness across the entire field of the frame. Excellent design with an integrated hood allows you not to be afraid of flare; soft, smooth diaphragm of an interesting shape. Good as a universal lens for any subjects, except perhaps for large portraits. Due to the high sharpness, such images may only be of interest to a dermatologist.

There are several options for the lens, but I tried the old one - with six aperture blades, popularly nicknamed the "zebra" for the characteristic stripes on the aperture and focus rings. The model is equipped with a "jump" aperture, but it will not work on modern cameras due to the difference in design. On the side of the case there is a button that closes the aperture to the value set by the ring. For convenience, I simply cut out a small piece of eraser and put it between the key and the case. Thus, for shooting, you no longer need to press the button - the aperture is closed by the ring immediately to the desired value.

Despite the fact that the lens becomes quite “long” on a camera with a crop factor of 1.5 (202.5 mm equivalent focal length), it has a simply magical pattern, soft bokeh, but at the same time it is quite sharp. Good as a "portrait", and for other tasks too. Even some moss, taken by "zonnar", becomes beautiful. Great lens.