The glamorous side of Jerusalem's Mahane Yehuda Market - A comprehensive guide to the trendiest restaurants and bars. Restaurant "Casino de Paris": delicious snacks, drinks and fun

The luxurious Jerusalem market "Mahane Yehuda" (Camp Yehuda), spread out in colorful rows between Jaffa and Agripas streets, is the oldest market in the country, founded in 1887. It dazzles with colors, drives you crazy with stupefying aromas, deafens with the sounds of a many-voiced crowd - in a word, this is an oriental bazaar in all its glory, without visiting which you cannot get a complete picture of either the city, or the country, or the people.

In the second half of the 19th century, the whole life of Jerusalem was concentrated within the boundaries of the Old City, the space surrounding it was just beginning to be built up. In 1877, the Jewish quarter of Beit Yaakov was founded, and every morning on the empty large plot next to it, Arab peasants began to sell vegetables, fruits, and herbs. So under open sky an oriental bazaar arose spontaneously. In 1917, when British troops came close to Jerusalem, the Turks fired at them from cannons installed right in the market. As a result of the battle, the Turks fled, and British power was established in Jerusalem. Practical Britons sensibly judged that the market could become calling card Jerusalem, and since that time "Mahane Yehuda" began to change and acquire civilized features.

There is everything you can imagine and wish for here: fruits, pastries, hundreds of varieties of cheese, fish, oriental spices, dried fruits. Everything is cheaper in the market than in any store, and in small local restaurants you can taste delicious dishes of oriental cuisine. To feel the atmosphere of the market, it is better to come here on a Friday morning, when the locals are shopping for a traditional Saturday dinner. The market is open from Sunday to Thursday from 10.00 to 19.00, on Friday from. 09.00 to 15.00.

Arabic market

The northwestern part of the Old City is occupied by the Christian Quarter. The narrow streets of the Christian Quarter have been turned into an endless oriental market (David Street runs through the entire market of the Christian Quarter).

Mahane Yehuda Market - the largest in Jerusalem and, according to many, the best food market in Israel. Locals call it simply Shuk (from Hebrew - market) and believe that without visiting Shuk, a tourist will not understand Jerusalem life.

Mahane Yehuda ("Camp Yehuda") was the name of the area outside the Old City, formed in 1887. Yehuda is the name of the brother of one of the three partners who built the area. Very quickly, a spontaneous market appeared in the neighboring wasteland, which grew along with the new quarters. During the British Mandate, trade was streamlined, permanent counters were built under the roof.

Now the market is located on two main streets, crossed by streets with cute names - Peach, Pear, Walnut ... Since the beginning of the 21st century, a lot has changed: cafes, night bars, restaurants, fashion stores have appeared (the changes were initiated by the board of directors of the market after the terrorist attacks in which 23 people - the flow of visitors then temporarily decreased). Since 2010, an annual street music and dance festival has been held here, attracting crowds of walkers.

However, the main thing remains the same: the colorful space of a typical oriental bazaar, filled with sounds and smells. Multi-colored vegetables and fruits are pleasing to the eye; smells of spices, fresh bread, coffee; sellers loudly invite buyers, everyone around is bargaining, laughing, shouting to each other. A person who comes here for the first time can be confused.

Regulars are advised to start with the Marzipan bakery - it is located on Agrippa Street to the right of the entrance to the market. The bakery is famous not for marzipans, but for traditional Jewish pastries, rugelakh (these are small croissants with a layer, soft and sweet). Having refreshed themselves with several servings of rugelakh (they say the most delicious ones are with chocolate), a tourist, having dived into the territory of the market, can drink them with freshly squeezed juice on Ha-Yegots street. Here, Yemeni Uzi Eli offers juice from an original mixture of ingredients - for example, from lemon, sugar cane and quince. On the same street, in the Muslin ice cream shop, you can try another strange product - ice cream with the taste of basil and grapefruit at the same time.

After that, the tourist turns onto Etz Ha-Chaim Street and freezes for a long time in front of the counter with halvah. It is with all sorts of additives - it's nice to take some home for souvenirs. Nearby, on Ha-Shazif Street, in a cheese shop they are allowed to try all the cheeses. You step into the next lane - fresh fish, and here - olives next to smoked herring, and homemade pickles, and nuts, and tea ...

In the Iraqi part of the market, it is interesting to watch old people playing backgammon. There is also a Georgian part, Russian tourists love it very much. In general, the market is multicultural - immigrants from Poland, Russia, France, Tunisia, Morocco and other countries trade here, and for most sellers, the family business is rooted in history.

Before the market closes, vegetables and fruits (they are no longer considered fresh in the evening) can be bought cheaply. But the most big discounts On Friday, before Shabbat, Shuk closes for the obligatory Saturday rest.

In the back streets of the streets, many hidden establishments are lost, which are familiar only to the inhabitants of Jerusalem.

Jewish market Mahane Yehuda(translated as "Yehuda's camp") is the oldest active market in Israel. It opened in 1887.

Getting to the market is very convenient. Now there is a tram route (the only one in Jerusalem) near the market. There are Iraqi, Persian, Ethiopian, Iranian, Tunisian shops and those that are kept by immigrants from Russia and the former USSR. Nearby are many small Middle Eastern restaurants, joined by recently opened Italian, English, Spanish, Indian, Turkish and French cafes. In addition to food, you can buy gifts and souvenirs in the market: Judaica, jewelry, ceramics and inexpensive clothes.

If I wanted to buy products cheaper, I would go there before the closing of the malls. By evening, prices are halved, as products are no longer considered fresh. But my goal is to feel the local atmosphere, and therefore I came to the market Mahane Yehuda Friday morning. At this time, local residents are shopping for the traditional Sabbath morning - the Jews are preparing for Shabbat.

Like many market regulars, I started my trip from a bakery Marzipan, which is to the right of the entrance to the market, on Agripas street. She is famous not for marzipans, but for traditional Jewish pastries. rugelah- small croissants with filling.

The market met me with a huge counter with a mountain of ruddy hal. "Buy and eat immediately!" The thought flashed like an order. But I forced myself to pass. After biting off a piece, it will be impossible to stop.

For two hours I wandered the aisles. Bought only what simply could not be bought. Moving from shop to shop, from halvah to spices, from fruits to meat delicacies, from pastries to wine and cheeses, all I took was tahini, zaatar, halvah, vanilla, majul dates (one of the sweetest varieties in world), challah and a huge tangerine.

My bag was so heavy and swollen that it began to interfere with movement. A hefty pomegranate was also asked for a tangerine, but I decided to limit myself to a glass of sweet, slightly tart freshly squeezed pomegranate juice - in Israel, on every corner, they are ready to squeeze juice from the freshest fruits and vegetables, make a cocktail or a multi-colored smoothie.

As it turned out, looking at the mountains of greenery and vegetables and artistically built pyramids of sweets or spices, I managed to pass the streets of Afarsek (peach), Agas (pear), Egoz (nut), Shaked (almond), Shezif (plum), Tapuah (apple) and Tuta (here). All of them are right on the market.

Refreshed, I moved with a revision of the local restaurants and cafes.

The first point on my route was Uzi Al shop- A native of Yemen. Right before the entrance, Uzi said that he was breastfed until he was five years old, and then he began to suck milk from a goat, however she is- it happened- soon died. During the story, he applied to his chest a huge etrog(this is such an overgrown lemon). Then he suddenly laughed very loudly, somehow in a theatrical way. I thought that the unintentionally surging memories of the goat, who died untimely, affected his mental state. In fact, Wei El showed how to laugh correctly in order to avoid health problems.

However, it was not laughter or milk that turned out to be the sure remedy for all diseases, but the wild lemon etrog, from which Uzi makes healing creams and oils. I tried etrogat - juice made from etrog, grapefruit and khat - and felt an incredible surge of health and awakening appetite.

In Georgian Cafe Khachapuri I had to stand in a short queue, but I have never eaten such delicious khachapuri with cheese and herbs!

In the neighboring Cafe Muslin I drank a cup of aromatic coffee and ate homemade saffron flavored ice cream. To complete the picture, I decided to try the local fast food. By the way, in the entire history of modern Israel, not a single poisoning was recorded with products bought not only in a store, but also on the market.

On the way to the fourth delicious point, I managed to buy ceramics (plates, bowls), it is made by local Armenians, and a kippahI really liked the ornament.

In the open area of ​​the market listened to the local Elvis Presley (the image of the great musician - suit, guitar, hairstyle - was organically complemented by a kippah and sidelocks).

And here is my goal - sambusak! It is assembled like a constructor from prepared ingredients: a deep-fried empty unleavened dough patty is cut, smeared with hummus on the inside and filled with vegetables to your liking.

The sambusak was so good that I decided on a hot sahlab drink as well.

To understand what it is, take hot milk, pour in rose water, add sugar, cornmeal, chopped pistachios, coconut and almonds. A sip - and you are in Jerusalem!

Having spent the market Mahane Yehuda about four hours, I can safely advise all tourists who are going to Jerusalem to include it in the list of must-see attractions.

By the way, a kippah accidentally bought on the market came in handy on the same day.After the market, I went for a walk in the old city, and there I had to put on a kippah in order to approach the wailing wall, for men cannot approach this holy place without a headdress.

Arriving at new town, you always want to join it as soon as possible, and the Mahane Yehuda market (מחנה יהודה‎ - Mahane Yehuda) is just the place to go to experience the daily life of Jerusalem.

The Mahane Yehuda quarter was founded in 1887 and was closely adjacent to another quarter, Beit Yaakov, founded two years earlier. On the territory between these two quarters, the Beit Yaakov market was formed at the same time, later renamed the Mahane Yehuda market.

The market consists of two main streets: Eitz HaChaim, where the covered market is located, and the streets Machane Yehuda where the open-air market is located.These two streets are crossed by several streets, the names of which, by the way, come from various fruits (except one). I'm attaching a map for clarity.

The Mahane Yehuda market is sometimes referred to as a "national treasure". Here you can buy ripe fruits and vegetables, fish and meat, a variety of cheeses, nuts, all kinds of oriental sweets, fragrant teas and spices, and even sausage (which, by the way, is a problem in Israel, in my spoiled view of the Russian consumer). The people you meet here will belong to completely different age, social, ethnic and religious groups.

The market lives with the passage of the day. For example, early in the morning, around 8, you will see how he wakes up: shops open, merchants unhurriedly lay out goods, and the first visitors buy fresh, still hot bread. And inin the evening, at 18:45, the same bread, already a little less fresh, can be purchased at half price.

On Eitz HaChaim there is a Teller bakery, where, in my opinion, you can buy the most delicious bread of many different types.

On the same street there are several shops under the general name Mamlechet Hachalva (from Heb. "Kingdom of Halva"), which offer more than 30 types of halvah in different flavors, from traditional coffee, almonds or pecans to chili peppers, Oreo cookies or Nutella pasta. The main thing is that it is really very tasty and is considered one of the best in all of Israel. However, you can see for yourself, as friendly sellers will always treat you with a piece of oriental delicacy.

Another place worthy of attention and included in my personal TOP is the Basher cheese shop.The owner of the shop, Eli Bascher, after traveling through France and Italy, fell in love with European cheeses and decided to start importing them to Israel. The first Basher store was opened 20 years ago here at Mahane Yehuda Market. Today, you can find more than 1200 (!) types of cheese in it, which are produced on small rural and family dairy farms throughout Europe. In addition, true gourmets can pair good Israeli wine with cheese at Basher.Over the years, the store has gained great popularity, and today it is considered the best network in its field.And there is a handsome man with a beard working there. Girls, go there at least for him.

Despite the praised by me Basher, it is worth devoting a few lines to another cheese shop - Tzedekiya. It is located at the end of the same street. Here you will not count 1200 types of cheese, but if you like curd creamy cheese, then you are definitely here. I personally I found my favorite cheese here, which I can eat with spoons - gvina levana im salmon, or cottage cheese with salmon. If you also like this combination, take note.

Boutique Central is a bakery that appeared in Tel Aviv in 2004 and has become very popular among Israelis, partly due to the fact that most of the pastries they make are kosher (and, of course, fresh and delicious). After 18:00 there are also tempting offers, in particular 1 + 1 for croissants.

Their point in the Mahane Yehuda market is the first and so far the only one in Jerusalem. Bye, because there's a new one opening next month! But where, I won’t say (because they didn’t tell me myself). And, toBy the way, this is one of the first places in Israel where the famous French pasta appeared. And alsoin "Boutique central" you can find jam own production for every taste: kiwi, lychee, strawberry, apricot, quince…

Turning off Eitz HaChaim onto HaShezif, you will most likely stop, like me, staring at the machine spitting out bread.The owner of the store, noticing that I was watching the process very carefully, approached me. In his hands he had a handful of buckwheat and one, the same loaf, which I tasted with pleasure (and my sister ate it with even greater pleasure).Actually, as you probably already guessed, on HaShezif street you can buy fresh buckwheat bread at Hamami Brothers store. And there you can stock up on freshly ground coffee!

Nearby, on Eliyahu Banai, you will see a vegetarian restaurant that, according to the sign, serves the best hummus in all of Jerusalem.But what's really interesting is that the house across from this restaurant used to be home to an acting family, the Banai Dynasty. The most famous member of the family, Yossi Banai, an Israeli actor and singer who performed at all the main venues in the country, was also born there. In honor of the father of the dynasty - Eliyahu Banai - the street was named. And the restaurant is named after a song by Ehud Banai - HaAgas 1.

In most cases, a walk through the market is a test for topographical cretinism. Fortunately, I don’t suffer from it, but I honestly don’t remember the street on which the next important place is located. Probably precisely because I found it, wandering aimlessly through the narrow streets of the market. But! It will not be difficult to find it, because nearby (I apologize in advance for the non-gastronomic inclusion) is "spread"(WC). And everyone will find this holy of holies, if they really want to.

This place is the Hakecvia butcher shop (actually, the name as “butcher shop” is translated). She attracted me for several reasons. Firstly, it differs from other butcher shops in that it is clean. And for me it is very important. Secondly, this shop has existed almost from the very beginning of the formation of the state of Israel, which, in my opinion, is an indicator of quality. And, thirdly (and this is what attracted me the most), it is held by two charming twin brothers! They said that this is a family business that has passed from grandfather to father, and now to them. So for myself, I decided that for fresh chicken breast - only to them!

And since I already mentioned meat, it's time to tell where you can buy sausage on the market.I already wrote that in Israel there are “problems” with her. Those who have been here for a long time probably know what I mean. It's not that there are no sausages in stores, but if we compare it with the same sausage that we used to buy in Russia, then this is heaven and earth. Therefore, if I buy sausage, then only in the "Russian stores" that are in every city.

But, standing somehow in line for morning coffee, I drew attention to the merchant, smartly hanging sausage along his bench. Everything looked extremely appetizing, so I marked this place for myself for the future. There is a shop right next to Cofizz (if you go from the side of Jaffa Street, on the right hand), so it's hard to pass by.

Our lives are changing, and so is the life of the market. In recent years, more and more places have appeared on it where you can sit for a cup of coffee or a bite to eat.And after a walk through the market, where at every step there are spicy spices, fresh fruits and vegetables, fragrant cheeses and mind-blowing sweets, the brain begins to receive signals about the growing feeling of hunger.

Without thinking twice, I went to HaTut Street (aka "Strawberry") to an institution whose name hinted that I would definitely like it there - (Pasta - pasta, Basta - shop).Pasta Basta at Mahani Yehuda Market was the very first to open in 2010. Now there are already 7 of them throughout Israel, incl. and next to the entrance to the Carmel market from the Allenby side in Tel Aviv.

The concept of the institution is as follows: you choose pasta, choose sauce, you can additionally choose various toppings - mushrooms, cheese, zucchini, caramelized onions, etc. - and you get all this at very affordable prices!And you can also watch how your pasta is cooked, which is also exciting.

After ordering pasta with cheese sauce, I got into a conversation with the barista, Zlil. She said that she has been working at Pasta Basta for 4 years: “For me, this is a second home. And it's not just the teamwork. It's about the people who come here, creating a special atmosphere." And I understood what she meant. Despite the fact that there is not very much space there, and I had to sit at the bar, I felt very comfortable. And the friendly and smiling staff only fueled this feeling.

Mahane Yehuda is not just a market. This is an important and unique part of the city, carrying a part of its culture. Everyone knows that the Eastern peoples are very fond of bargaining. At Jerusalem's main market, you don't have to buy anything, but you have to enjoy trying to bring down the price! In addition, with a simple phrase "Kama ole ehad?" ("How much does one cost?") sometimes you can try something in every shop without paying a shekel.

As you remember, discounts on bread start at 18:45. So, not only he is getting cheaper! After 7 pm, many fruits and vegetables are much cheaper too! For example, mushrooms can be bought for 5 NIS per package, or three for 12 NIS (instead of one for 8 NIS), and avocados for 6 NIS per kg, instead of the usual 8 NIS or 11 NIS. And besides, it is in the evening that you have the opportunity to see the full picture of a real oriental market: crowds of people buying products after a working day, sellers shouting prices from behind their stalls, street performers attracting the attention of passers-by, noise, din ...

By the way, if you wait until closing, you can see how the market turns into a street art gallery. In 2015, shop shutters became a market attraction as young street artist Solomon Susa filled them with characters ranging from biblical heroes to Israeli prime ministers. At first, Susa and his friends sought out shop owners to get permission to paint their shutters, but over time, the owners began to seek them out and ask them to paint something special.

I managed to see only a few images, but I decided that I should definitely come here early in the morning, a couple of hours before the opening, to walk around street gallery and take more pictures. But that's a completely different story...