A good example of repairing a book at home. How to restore the pages of the book yourself? Modern means to seal a book

Restoration of damaged sheets consists in fastening the gaps, strengthening the margins, straightening and strengthening the corners of the sheet, replenishing its lost parts, and strengthening the dilapidated sheets.

When performing restoration work, the following rules must be observed.

To make up for the lost parts of the sheet, paper is selected that is similar or close in thickness, structure and color to the paper of the restored sheet.

To avoid deformation of the sheet during continuous duplication or build-up of lost parts, it is pre-moistened with a gauze swab. Be sure to ensure that the longitudinal and transverse directions of the fibers of the restored sheet and the paper to be glued always coincide.

Transparent paper (capacitor, cigarette) used for gluing gaps and duplicating shabby sheets is always glued on both sides so that there is no curling of the sheet. Mica paper is not transparent enough, so it is mainly used to reinforce margins and single-sided sheets. It is applied to the sheet to be restored with a matte side and rubbed with a swab of damp gauze.

The glue is always applied in a thin layer, preferably with a small flat bristle brush (No. 10-18). Its excess is removed by rubbing with a bone of the bonding points through an auxiliary sheet of paper. Glue that has fallen outside the seam is removed with a damp gauze swab.

All sheets after restoration must be held under pressure for better bonding of paper and reduction of deformation. They should be put into the press wet, placing filter paper between them. After pre-drying the sheets, the moistened release paper is removed. In its place, to prevent sticking, they put waxed paper (for this purpose, you can use thick paper or cushioning cardboard, which are rubbed with paraffin and ironed with a warm iron) and put them back into the press. Pressurization should last at least a day until completely dry. For restoration work, flour paste or Na-CMC solution is used.

Bonding sheet breaks

Connecting sheet breaks. When connecting the breaks of the sheet, the edges are straightened with a damp swab, smeared with a paste, connected and fastened along the break with a strip of condenser paper on both sides of the sheet. Several breaks located on one side of the cut (including the text part of the sheet) are fastened with a common strip of condenser or tissue paper, pasted along the entire cut. If the break does not touch the text part, you can use more durable mica paper.

The sheet, torn into several parts, is connected on the wet glass of the backlight so that the lines of text do not move. After that, the break lines are smeared with glue and fastened with strips of capacitor paper.

Straightening and strengthening the corners of the sheet. Twisted, but still strong corners of the sheets of the book are straightened with a damp swab, after which the sheets are kept under pressure. Worn, shabby corners of the sheet are strengthened with condenser or mica paper on both sides.

Replenishment of lost parts of the sheet. This operation requires some skills and accuracy in work from the performer. The missing parts of the sheet are filled with a patch, which is glued end-to-end or overlaid.

When restoring sheets sealed on both sides, the patch is placed end-to-end in order not to cover the images and to avoid thickening of the seam. They do it like this. The sheet is placed on the glass of the backlight. First, the edges of the cliff are straightened with a wet gauze swab, and then coated with glue to a width of 10-15 mm.

The paper selected for gluing is slightly moistened with a gauze swab and, observing the coincidence of the direction of the fibers, is applied to the break (the size of the patch should exceed the lost part of the sheet by 15-20 mm on each side).

Removing excess paper at the butt patch

After that, the sheet is turned over. On the other hand, the connection line is covered with glue (if the patch is small, then the entire patch is smeared with glue, capturing the contours of the sheet break by about 10 mm) and fastened with strips or a solid sheet of capacitor paper.

After rubbing the capacitor paper with a bone and removing the remaining glue, the sheet is turned upside down on the glass of the backlight. Pressing the patch with a scalpel along the joint line, cut off the excess paper so that its size exactly matches the size of the missing part of the sheet, after which the joint is fastened with strips of capacitor paper.

Growing destroyed margins in the spine. During prolonged use of the book, after repeated replacement of its binding covers, the margins of the sheets at the spine are destroyed so much that it becomes impossible to rebind the book without first restoring them. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that the original format of the paired sheets and the correct connection of the pages are maintained.

Destroyed fields in the spine are restored like this. A U-shaped frame is glued from strips of paper on the glass of the backlight from below, the width of the inner part of which would be equal to two full sheets of the book.

Increasing the margins at the roots of the sheet

The sheets to be restored are placed in the frame so that they are in contact with it with their side and bottom edges. The missing fields are filled in by gluing the paper end-to-end. In order to avoid thickening of the spine of books of large volume, the paper for restoring the margins should be selected somewhat thinner than that of the sheet being restored.

If necessary, simultaneously with the restoration of the root part of the sheet, the margins of the cutoffs are increased (with an allowance). Shabby sheets are strengthened on both sides with condenser paper.

After drying the sheets under a press, they are folded along the fold, the protruding ends of the glued strips are cut off and refolded. Otherwise, when cropping the front margin, one half will be cut far from the text, the other very close. It is necessary to bend the sheets so that the boundaries of the text of one and the other half of it coincide when combined.

Each of you probably has some favorite book that you often look through and which has suffered greatly from your love. It can be a school textbook, hardened in battles for knowledge, or a story, badly battered by a careless girlfriend. If you want to cure this "sick" book, we will gladly help you. First, you need to prepare tools and medicines. The only cure will be homemade glue, made from flour with a small (2-3%) addition of alum, which greatly improves the quality of the glue. Of course, you can also buy ready-made glue. Our flour glue needs to be mixed well so that there are no lumps, then it will look like a rather thick ointment. You can store it for 2-3 days, and with alum even 5 days, provided that we protect it from drying out. Mold glue should not be used.

The tool kit includes:

A sharp knife, the so-called bookbinding one, with a special point (see the figure) or a razor blade, if you know how to use it. But we do not recommend using scissors - not everything can be cut off with them and it is very difficult to cut exactly in a straight line;

ruler with a scale;

A metal ruler to cut paper on it;

Triangle or eker, metal is also better;

A sheet of cardboard or very thick paper and a piece of plywood, which should be placed under the paper so as not to damage the surface of the table;

Several large and heavy books for pressing the "sick" book while the glue dries;

Binding bone, similar to a wooden knife for cutting books. It can be replaced by a piece of a smooth bar for pressing and smoothing the glued pieces of paper.

Let's get started with these tools.

Let's start with the treatment of the most common ailment - a torn sheet or cover.

Easily and carefully, so as not to tear further, we bend the paper in the torn place and grease the edges of the gap with glue. Glue should be applied in a thin layer and not touch the surface of the paper. Then we connect the torn parts of the sheet into one whole, and on both sides of the gap we put a strip of thin, not smeared with glue, paper about 4 cm wide. The so-called Japanese paper is best suited for this - fibrous and transparent, which is used to paste over the wings of models of aircraft and gliders . The paper used for typewritten copies is also good. Remember that the paper should be thin and moderately transparent. The gap of the sheet pasted over in this way is ironed with a bone or a nail.

Then we put two more sheets of clean paper on both sides, close the book and, pressing it with a pile of heavy books, leave it to dry for 6-12 hours (preferably overnight).

After that, we take our patient, remove the sheets of paper, as shown in the figure. Finally, once again smooth out the glued place with a bone or fingernail. The torn sheet is cured, and the place of the rupture is barely noticeable.

Documents can also be glued in this way. We are sure that you will like our method much more than gluing with a “band-aid”.

And now about how to glue the torn cover.

Let's try to learn how to glue a torn and frayed cover. You already know how to make glue, and the same “tools” will be needed. In the "binding shop" we will strengthen the weakest and fastest wearing parts of the book: the spine of the cover and the place where it connects to the book. Depending on the type of cover and the degree of wear, we will need paper, thin canvas and thick gauze. Remember that thick, hard and glossy paper is unsuitable for this business. When all necessary materials will be already prepared, the glue is mixed, and unnecessary items are removed from the table - let's get to work.

Carefully tear off the torn and torn cover from the book, and then, if it is a cardboard cover, repair it in the same way that you learned how to do it last time. Lay the glued cover flat on the table and reinforce by gluing a strip of paper to the spine, which should be 10-15 mm wider than the thickness of the spine of the book. After 1-3 hours, while the glue is still not completely dry, remove the cover from under the “press” (several heavy books) and smear a strip of paper with a thin layer of glue again. Remove excess glue and attach the spine of the book to the spine of the cover; close the book by gluing the protruding edges of the paper strip to the outer pages of the book; put a closed book under the “press” for at least 12 hours.

However, when repairing thicker books, it is better to use the method shown in the figure.

1 - soft cover, 2 - book, 3 - strip of paper, 4 - strip of paper, thin linen or thick gauze, glued with tissue paper

Glue the spine of the cover with a strip of linen or thick gauze with tissue paper pasted on it, and the spine of the book with a strip of paper. The strip of canvas should be 20 cm longer than the height of the book, and its ends should be tucked in, gluing the canvas to the cover. The width of the strips should be such that the paper strip is 4-6 mm wider than the canvas strip, which, in turn, is 20 mm wider than the spine. Glue the cover only to the part of the paper strip tucked up and glued to the first page.

Hard covers are glued a little differently. Take a strip of canvas 30 mm wider than the spine and glue it only to the spine. If the book is badly frayed, crumbling "notebooks" must first be firmly sewn to the linen strip, firmly connecting them into one.

They asked me the other day to fix this old book about tasty and healthy food. At a cursory examination, I immediately wanted to make a completely new cover and throw this one away because it was all torn, crumpled and dirty. I even got the idea to cut off the pages by 3-5 mm along the perimeter of the book block, since these ends were also in a terrible state, greasy, torn and faded from time to time. But since the owner did not give the go-ahead for a complete redevelopment, that is, he only asked to glue the cover somehow. He decided to leave everything as it is, connecting only the lapels of the covers. In addition, I am not a specialist in book restoration, so I did not insist on a complete alteration.

In general, this is what we have, or rather what we do not have, and we do not have a spine from the cover.

I cut out a new spine from 2 mm thick cardboard along the width of the book block. I chose the middle length of the spine, since the covers on this book are different, the front one is 5 mm larger.

I cut off all the tatters from the ends of the covers themselves.

Since the book is quite massive, I decided to glue all the fragments with a cloth, moreover, it will make an ideal and durable hinge. In my case, it turned out to be fabric from bathroom curtains. Later it turned out that it is poorly lubricated with liquid glue, it just rolls off it like water off a duck's back. But if you smear with thick glue (without diluting), then it is quite well lubricated and impregnated.

I smeared the fabric with PVA glue, put fragments of the cover on top of it, with an indent of 5 mm between them, on top of another piece of the same fabric and crushed it with a load overnight. So that the cover does not stick to the floor or to anything unnecessary, I covered it all with a film. But not hermetically (in small pieces of film) because PVA will dry for a very long time in bags. I glued two pieces of fabric, top and bottom, but it's probably easier to get by with one long piece.

After the cover has dried, we put a book block into it and see that the block protrudes outward by almost a centimeter, that is, the cover turned out to be small. We swear, we take accurate measurements, which we scored earlier, after which we cut the cover into fragments and glue it again, but with the necessary indentation from the spine.

Here the gap between the fragments is already 1.5 cm.

I found a piece of leatherette from some old document folder. Unfortunately, this skin is not reinforced with anything, almost bare rubber, but for a more decent appearance, I decided to mask a light fabric with it. The piece was cut out a little more to completely hide the light one under it.

We glue in the same way as the previous piece of fabric.

Since the skin is thick, I glued a couple of pieces of cardboard on the inside in order to subsequently get rid of the steps in a conspicuous place and bring everything into one plane. By the way, here the curvature is visible along the upper edge, due to the fact that the pieces of the cover are of different heights.

while the cover dries. I glued a piece of fabric to the end of the book block, leaving 2 cm ears free on each side. We glue very carefully so that the glue is soaked through the fabric. In general, experts use a bandage for this, besides, they make it a little shorter in length, but I decided to try a more durable material.

I bent the corners from thin cardboard, they will serve as a flyleaf for me. Because appearance is more spoiled on the cover, then wide edges will go to it, and narrow ones to the book block.

I retreated from the spine of the book block about 5 mm and glued the flyleaf to the book, I didn’t smear it with glue very much, since we don’t need drips on the front side.

Now we glue the overlaps of the fabric to the endpaper from the outside and send it under oppression.

Somehow, in the end, I got something like a small page, which remained to be glued to the cover.

This is already a crucial moment, we must try to miss and glue both sides at once. We put the book block in the cover, properly align it inside and put the book on the floor, trying not to move the block inside. Carefully open the upper sash, leaning it on something, grease the flyleaf on the book block with glue (we don’t smear the end of the block) and close the sash, do not forget about the film under the flyleaf otherwise it can stick to the pages of the book if you smear a lot of glue. We turn the book over, do the same on the other side and send it under oppression.

Between the flyleaf and the cover, you can glue a strip of fabric that will act as a bookmark. It is better to glue it to the flyleaf or cover in advance, until the book block is pasted.

In general, it dried for about two days. Outside, traces of glue squeezed out from under the leatherette are visible. Large drops were cleaned with a scalpel, the rest was wiped off with a damp cloth, because with due diligence dried PVA can be washed off with water, at the same time the cover became lighter.

From the bookmark I made a snake tongue with scissors.

A little light fabric is visible from the sides of the book block, apparently for this reason this strip is usually glued a little shorter than the book block.

Well, something like this in the end, I began to look like a new spine. Of course the artwork on the front is a bit covered up now, but since the cover itself is in a terrible state, I didn't really try to save it. If you immediately pick up a beautiful, durable fabric or dermantin, then you don’t have to fence this layer cake. Just glue all parts of the cardboard with it and the cover is ready, you can even completely paste over the cardboard, you get an imitation of a leather and expensive book. At the beginning, I generally wanted to leave the light fabric, just painting it on the outside to match the color of the cover, but then I found this piece of dermantine from the folder and decided to use it.

The other day I was fiddling with this little book in which the book block had already fallen apart and the pages had begun to fall out.

Paper book lovers are often faced with the fact that their favorite edition is torn, for example, as a result of a fall or careless handling, socks in a bag.

This is also familiar to most parents whose kids tear up books that still might well serve. And even more so, if the reading material was rented, the question arises -.

No special skills are required, only tools - scissors and adhesives.

One of the easiest and cheapest ways is to use fabric-backed masking tape to keep the glue from soaking through and sticking the pages themselves together.

For gluing you will need:

1. attach the torn page to the original place,
2. apply glue to the end of the masking tape,
3. attach the end so that it captures both the binding and the page.

If the pages are torn, you will need adhesive tape to restore them.

1. It is necessary to connect the pieces of the page and stick a pre-prepared piece of adhesive tape on top.
2. It is important to prevent the formation of air bubbles, and if they appear, immediately eliminate them.
3. Instead of adhesive tape, you can resort to PVA glue. Pieces of the page are also connected and coated with glue at the junction.
4. On top of the glossy side put tracing paper.
5. Then the sheet is turned over and smeared with glue on the reverse side.
6. To consolidate the result, the book is closed, and a load is placed on top.
7. After the composition has dried, the tracing paper must be removed. As a result, the page will be restored.

It also happens that you have to look for information that there are several ways.

1. The first is to apply PVA glue to the outside of the sheet, insert it into place, press the sheet against the spine with a metal ruler. It remains only to close the book and put it under the press until the composition is completely dry.
2. The second way is to use a strip of paper (called a fold). The length of the fold should be equal to the length of the dropped sheet, the width is about 10-15 mm. The sheet is folded in half in the longitudinal direction, glue is applied to the lower part from the outside and attached to the spine of the torn sheet. After the glue has dried, the second half of the sheet is folded under the page and attached to the base of the next page of the book.

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Another common problem for book lovers is a partially or completely torn cover. If it is already barely holding on, you should carefully peel it off, as you will have to re-attach it with glue. The cover should be laid out flat on the table, a piece of paper should be glued to the spine, slightly wider than the spine of the book. This will help strengthen the base.

After the cover lies under the press, you can attach it to the sheets by smearing the base with glue. The book must be placed under pressure again for several hours.

The topic of book binding at home is quite popular, when you need to fasten the sheets together and with the cover. There are different ways. Simpler ones will fit for small books, thick ones will require special tools and dexterity.

If there are about 40 sheets, a rotary stapler with a deep staple will do. With it, you can connect the pages like a regular student notebook.

If there are more sheets, you will need a stationery hole punch with a ruler. They make holes at the same distance on all sides. Then it remains to put the sheets into a regular stapled binder.

He will tell you how to restore a book with your own hands and give it a second life, and at the same time show your creative abilities.

per century information technologies and the Internet, there are still people among us who prefer the smell of printing ink, hardcover and yellow pages of a real book. Many of us love to hold a book and flip through rustling pages. But, unfortunately, a favorite book can be worn out and come into disrepair.

Before us is an old book, the cover of which has come off, and the pages are peeling off. If nothing is done, then soon the book will simply fall apart and have to be bound again.

As you can see, there is no cover at all on the back, so we will make it ourselves using improvised means.

So, first, carefully remove the front of the cover, so that it becomes clearer what needs to be fixed. In addition to the new hard cover, it is necessary to make a new flyleaf, glue the block so that the book does not lose pages, and make a captive tape (this tape fastens the block of pages to the cover).

Very slowly and carefully remove all unnecessary from the pages. In the event that the captal sits firmly and does not want to peel off in any way, then this element does not need to be removed. You can just glue it with PVA.

In the event that the tape is completely torn off, then a new one must be made.

To do this, take a simple gauze and cut out a rectangle that matches the size of the spine of the book.

If, after gluing the gauze, excess fabric protrudes, it can be cut with scissors.

As a result, we should get as shown in the picture above. Note that the gauze can be glued both in one layer and in several, for more reliable fastening.

For a better bond between the pages of the book and the gauze, glue should be applied over the gauze, evenly distributed over the spine of the book and placed under the press.

As a press, you can use other books or any other heavy object.

While the glue on our block will dry, we will take care of the cover, endpapers and spine.

For the new cover, we need cardboard or very thick paper. It is necessary to measure the old cover, if any remains. If it is missing, then you need to measure the book and add 5 mm on all sides.

The cover can be divided into two parts to make two rectangles, or you can cut out a whole one, but then you will have to make an effort to fold it correctly at the spine of the book.

Now let's take a look at the frontend. For this we need white paper, the most common. If you are a creative person and really want to do something unusual, then you can take pastel paper, which is a little stronger than regular paper, or just colored paper.

Fold the sheet for the endpaper in half along its length. As a result, the size of the flyleaf should be the same as the pages of the book.

Attach the flyleaf to the first page of the block. To do this, you need to retreat 5 mm from the spine along its entire length.

In the same way, we make the second flyleaf and glue it on the last page of our book.

We end up with a very paperback book.

We take gauze again and make a new base that will hold the pages and endpaper. On this basis we will attach a new spine of the book.

This time, the width on each side of the gauze should be 2 cm more so that the pages can be wrapped around the sides. It turns out that the gauze will be on the flyleaf. Later, when we glue the cover, the fabric will go under the flyleaf, so we will connect one side of the paper to the cover.

If desired, gauze can be glued in several layers.

In the end, we should end up with something like the one shown above. The book is now taking on a new look.

Now let's start creating a new cover for our book. We have already prepared the cardboard, but in order for our cover to look more attractive, we need a white sheet (you can use a different color) A4.

We grease the cardboard with glue and fasten it to the middle of the sheet.

As soon as the glue dries, cut off the corners of the sheet, slightly retreating from the edge of the cardboard.

Lubricate the protruding edges of the paper with glue and carefully glue it to the cardboard. We must try to make sure that the glue does not protrude onto the cardboard, otherwise it will not be very beautiful. Do not forget to remove excess air when we glue the paper to the cardboard, otherwise it will go into bubbles and you will have to start work again.

Fits the rest of the paper in the same way. The result is the first blank for the future cover. After gluing all sides, it is necessary to place this part under the press until it dries completely.

Do the same for the back of the cover.

After the cover has dried, we need to glue it to the flyleaf of the book.

We take another sheet of paper and put it under the top of the flyleaf. The flyleaf and the gauze that is glued to it are carefully greased with glue.

Glue should be applied quickly so that the paper does not have time to get wet.

We glue the cover on the flyleaf and smooth it with a soft cloth to remove all irregularities, if any. We do the same with the back cover, after which we put the whole book under the press.

While the book is under pressure, we will make a new spine.

To do this, take a graph paper to make a pattern for the spine. We measure the width, given that the spine has a rounded shape, and the length. I got 3.5 cm. After that, add 2 cm on each side.

According to the parameters obtained, we make a pattern and apply it to the material from which we will make the spine.

As a material, you can use leather, paper, fabric and any other materials.

It is necessary to make lines on the material along which the fold points will be visible, which should go to the bottom and top of the cover.

It is best to start gluing the spine from the bottom of the book. Lubricate the protruding 2 cm with glue and put the book on top, after which it presses.

Only after that you can glue the rest of the spine. We send the book under a press until the glue dries completely.

That's all! We got a new cover, and the book took on a completely different look.

The cover can be made from any other material or pasted over with fabric to give a more aesthetic look. If everything is fine with your imagination, you can start decorating the cover - make an applique, glue rhinestones, draw something or just paint beautifully.

It all depends on your imagination and creative thinking.

The article was written based on the magazine "Fair of Masters" (binding).