Riding loop. Fishing knots. Properties of a perfect loop

Sofia Waterfalls are a rapid stream of water falling from the mountainside of Mount Sofia, the second highest in the region, its height is 3637 meters. The first peak of Arkhyz is Mount Pshish, its height is 3790 meters. Not to be confused with Mount Psysh (3489 m). In the area of ​​the village of Arkhyz, the confluence of four mountain rivers: Psysh, Arkhyz, Kizgych and Sofia, forms the Bolshoy Zelenchuk River - the deepest in the Zelenchuk region. And all these beauties of mountains, mountain rivers and green valleys are an integral part beautiful nature Karachay-Cherkessia.

The Sofia River originates on the Sofia Glacier, from which it flows like a stormy stream into the valley along the steep slopes of the mountains. The village of Arkhyz is the closest locality to the Sofia Falls, but also quite recently, the Romantic ski resort grew next to it in Solnechnaya Polyana. Of course, first of all, Arkhyz is a ski resort and the main flow of tourists falls precisely in the winter months, but in the summer, tourists are primarily attracted to Arkhyz by the Sofia Falls. And since the Sofia Falls are the most visited attraction in Arkhyz, that’s where we’ll start.

How to get to Sofia Falls

• If you have a car. Along the regional route R-265 Cherkessk - Zelenchukskaya - Arkhyz 111 km long drive to the village of Arkhyz. You can get to Cherkessk by turning off the highway R-217 Caucasus in the area Mineralnye Vody or Nevinnomyssk. Behind the village of Arkhyz you need to turn left following the sign and cross the bridge over the Arkhyz River, after which the asphalt road will change to a dirt road and very soon you will find yourself in the Taulu clearing.
• If you are traveling independently without a vehicle. By train you can get to Nevinnomyssk or Kislovodsk. From Kislovodsk it’s further to go to Arkhyz, but there are more transfer options. From Kislovodsk ( from the bus station at 7.55) there is a minibus to Arkhyz, the fare costs 430 rubles, and it takes 5 hours. From Nevinnomysk to Arkhyz the minibus takes 4 hours 20 minutes and the fare costs 390 rubles. These options entail many inconsistencies between the arrival time of the train and the departure time of the minibuses. Therefore, there are several more options.
• Transfer. As a transfer, you can use the services of any taxi. As a proven means, you can use the services of a taxi recommended by the official website of the Arkhyz Ski Resort. In addition, you can use the excursion bus as a regular bus and get to Arkhyz from any city of the KMS. The cost of such an excursion will be up to 1500 rubles. per person, although it’s unlikely that you’ll be able to save that much on transfers.

If you are going to Arkhyz on a hike, do not forget that the Sofia Falls, like the Sofia Lakes, are located near the border with Abkhazia, so be sure to have your passport with you. One of the popular routes among tourists looks like this: Transfer to the Glacier Farm - Sofia Lakes - Upper Comma Lake - Lower Comma Lake - exit to the Taulu clearing.

Excursion to Sofia Falls

The route to the Sofia Falls is the most visited attraction in Arkhyz and, without exaggeration, the most spectacular. However, visiting the Sofia Falls poses some difficulties. The waterfalls are located in 15 km from the village of Arkhyz, so only those tourists who plan to spend the night in the mountains dare to walk. Otherwise, you will need transport, and not just any kind, but preferably all-wheel drive and with high ground clearance, since in one place you will have to cross the river.

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UAZ 4x4 - this is the car you can easily find along the entire route from Arkhyz to Sofia Falls. Local private owners will offer you an excursion in a UAZ. This pleasure costs 650 rubles per person, provided that the excursion takes 6 people, otherwise you will be asked to divide the cost of renting a car (4000 rubles) by the number of people gathered. As a rule, there is no shortage of travel companions only on Saturday and Sunday; on any other day, a problem may arise with the search for people willing to attend this or that excursion, which, by the way, no one will solve for you. The hard work of the tourist is to bring all six people to the guide, so that the cost of the tour does not hit the pocket too much.

There is one more nuance. On Saturday and Sunday, excursions start at 9-10 a.m. from a stop on Lenin Street in the village of Arkhyz, here you can make arrangements with them; on any other day, all cars are based at the Taulu clearing, located in 5 km from the village. The exit to the Taulu clearing is located between the village of Arkhyz and the resort village of Romantik. From the Taulu glade to the Sofia Falls is 10 km. It won’t be difficult to find the guides’ phone numbers; literally everyone in the village either knows them or is related to them. You can go to any cafe or any trade tent and ask the guide’s phone number.

Glade Taulu, Arkhyz

For those who have been to Elbrus or Cheget, it can be explained simply. The Taulu clearing for Arkhyz is the same as the Azau clearing for Elbrus. This is where the main tourist life of those who come to Arkhyz takes place. There is a market here with delicacies and souvenirs for every taste. Here you can easily find a guide; they are here for this reason and stand on their all-wheel drive horses. Around the Taulu clearing there are countless houses and tent camps, the places in which are for sale. Coming here for the weekend and pitching a tent will cost 150 rubles. per person. The Psysh River flows through the clearing. It is the Taulu glade, which is sometimes called the Sofia glade, where the route to the Sofia Falls, as well as to the Sofia Lakes, starts, but that’s another story.

Road to Sofia Falls

Looking back, we can say with confidence that the road to the Sofia Falls itself looks no less picturesque than the waterfalls themselves. It passes through the Sofia Gorge, which turns into the Sofia Valley. On the left side rises the Chaget-Chat ridge. You can stop at least every hundred meters and they will open every time different types breathless. If the weather is favorable and the mountain peaks open, then you can easily notice that the Sofia Glacier and the nearby mountain peaks are very similar to a throne, for which Mount Sofia is also called Mount Tron. And if you count the third peak on the left, you can see the silhouette of a stone eagle.

In Arkhyz, on the slopes of the hills and in the valleys, horses of the famous Karachay breed graze, you can meet the Karachay lamb, and meet buffalos.

The place where we met the buffaloes is called Glacier Farm. Here is the fork of two routes: Sofia Falls and Sofia Lakes.

It's tempting to visit both of these routes in one day, but here are the hard numbers. From the glacier farm to the Sofia Falls it is 2 km and the elevation gain is 300 meters. From the Lendikova farm to the Sofia Lakes there are 4 km and 900 meters of elevation gain. Thus, during daylight hours you will have to cover 12 km of path and gain an altitude of 1200 meters. In absolute terms, this is the difficulty of the pass of category A1 - difficult, but surmountable. The only question will be: will you have time to get down from the mountains before dark? As practice shows, it gets dark unexpectedly quickly in the mountains and night closes in on many people right in the mountains, where it is easy to lose the path. Therefore, be careful, if you are going to visit both attractions in one day, it is advisable to first go to the Sofia Lakes, since the road there is more difficult, although you risk later being left without the Sofia Falls altogether.

Before starting the hiking route to the Sofia Falls, our guide took us to the opposite slope, from where we could see both the waterfalls themselves and the Sofia Valley.

As mentioned above, the hiking trail from the clearing, not far from the Glacier Farm, takes 2 km and 300 meters up. There is only one path here, it is well trodden, but you need to walk all the time along the river, because this is the same Sofia River, which originates on the glacier. So it’s simply impossible to get lost on this route. The first kilometer is easy and carefree, the sun is shining, the streams are babbling, the weather is excellent.

The second kilometer, along with the ascent, also brings difficulties. Even in mid-June, which is when we visited Arkhyz, there was still snow on the slopes of Sofia. The waterfalls themselves open only at the end of May. Icy water and snow affect air temperatures, which begin to drop. The higher we go, the lower the temperature. On average, the temperature difference between the Sofia Falls and the Glacier Farm is 5-7 degrees. In addition, in some places you will have to walk through the snow, and at some point you will have to cross the river; it will be good if the flow is not strong and you can cross over the rocks. Here are some tips regarding clothing. Dress appropriately. These are mountains, take a windbreaker with you, wear sneakers or boots, do not wear slippers or flip-flops. Don't forget sunscreen, the sun is merciless in the mountains. Comfortable shoes will help you safely cross snowfields and protect you from sharp rocks.

A long climb leads straight to the waterfalls; along the way you will have to cross a stormy mountain stream. Depending on the season, it ranges from a weak stream to a stormy river. And the situation is exactly the same with the waterfalls themselves. The Sofia waterfalls become the fullest at the height of summer (July, August), when the glacier is actively melting. Having reached the waterfalls, the traveler will be fully rewarded for his efforts with a beautiful view of the Sofia Valley, opening from the wall of the waterfalls. And the Sofia waterfalls themselves, roaring at arm's length, awaken real admiration for nature.

From the foot of the Sofia Falls, a breathtakingly beautiful view of the Abishir Akhub ridge opens up. And the saddle on the ridge is the Fedoseev Pass, behind which there are mountain lakes, also a favorite route for tourists, and now also simplified due to the appearance of a cable car on ski resort Romantic.

If you look closely, you can even see the turquoise tongue of the glacier up close.

On mountain slopes it is not uncommon, and the higher the higher, the more often, you can find the beautiful mountain Rhododendron or Caucasian flower. This frost-resistant plant is very good for health; in the village you can buy mountain tea with its leaves.

The entire walk from the parking lot to the Sofia Falls will take approximately 2 hours to ascend and 1 hour to descend, so by setting a time interval of 4 hours you will have time to climb to the waterfalls and admire them and go back down. The price of the excursion also includes a return transfer, so do not be afraid to be left without transport, although all the guides do not go with you to the waterfalls, they are waiting for you below. Here in the cafe you can try national Karachay cuisine. Shorpa soup - broth with lamb and potatoes, lamb kebab, khychin with meat or cheese and delicious mountain tea.

Ismail became our guide to the Sofia Falls; he stopped the car at our first request and patiently waited while we walked around the Sofia Falls. Everyone in the village knows him, so if you want to take our advice, just ask anyone in the village for his phone number.

Video report from Sofia Falls

In addition to photographs and our review from Arkhyz and Sofia Falls, we brought a refreshing video with which you can get a more detailed idea of ​​the area. Because whatever you say, it’s easy to navigate only in a place where you’ve already been.

M48. Aul Arkhyz - r. Sofia - "Glacier Farm" (road, 16 km).

Mount Sofia (3637 m) is located in the watershed of the Psysh and Kizgych rivers. The Cheget-Chat and Sofia ridges depart from Sofia. Between them there is a deep river gorge. Sofia. It has long been used for transhumance grazing. On the map of the early 20th century. the road along the entire gorge, several paths and a chain of shepherd's cats on the right slope are shown.

The road approaches the very foot of Sofia, where the so-called “Glacier Farm” stood until recently near the last pine grove. Indeed, nearby is the Bolshoi Sofia Glacier. From a distance, Sofia resembles a majestic Byzantine temple, and up close, it resembles a massive stone throne with a glacial cushion. A fringe of waterfalls falls into the valley through a high rocky step, with which the river begins. Sofia. There's a simple lane right there. Sofia Sedlo (2640 m) in Kizgych.

In contrast to the calm pasture range. The Cheget-Chat Sofia ridge is noticeably higher and more rugged. It bears the high rocky and snow-capped peaks of Nadezhda, Kel-Bashi, Karadzhash, to which the deep gorges of Ak-Ayry, Kashkha-Echki-Chat, Gammesh-Chat, and Orlyonok lead. Above there is snow, ice and wonderful mountain lakes. All eight glaciers of the gorge (with an area of ​​3.8 km2) are located on the Sofia Ridge. The accessibility of the Sophia Gorge and rich nature provide ample opportunities for tourism. From the gorge you can make excursions to waterfalls and lakes on the ridge. Cheget-Chat and pass hikes along the lake circuses of the Sofia ridge, to Psysh or Kizgych.

The road to the Sofia Gorge departs from Psyshskaya, 7 km from Arkhyz. There is a bridge over Psysh, behind it there is a farm and nearby, on a hill, a memorial complex in honor of the defenders of the Caucasus in 1942-1943. The mouth of Sofia is invisible behind the forest. There is a path going there. Curious are the “mounds” with pine trees - the remains of a moraine of an ancient glacier. In the past, it descended here from the overlying “hanging” valley of Sofia. Scaffolding hides the mouth step. Having overcome the climb, we find ourselves in a picturesque clearing with a group of spherical mountain maples. Ahead, in the depths of the gorge, is the city of Sofia, shining with snow. On the right is the wooded Gammesh-Chat gorge. From here there is a trail to the Sofia Lakes.

The different vegetation on the slopes is striking. The left one, shaded and inaccessible, is surrounded by continuous dark coniferous forest; on the right, light, pines and broad-leaved trees grow in stripes, groves between pastures. At the 14th km kosh. At the 16th km, the valley opens up and a wide treeless river valley is visible on the right. Ak-Ayry. Above the mouth of Ak-Ayra there are vast clearings. You can put up tents there. The Karachay name of this tract Bugoy-Stauat is “Glacier camp”. You can feel the cold breath of the glacier. Usually the trunks are thrown to the left bank.

M49. Sofia Falls (half-day excursion) leaves an unforgettable impression.

The path to them goes along the left bank of Sofia. Just beyond the terminal moraine, overgrown with old pine trees, the final part of the valley opens up. Its bottom is strewn with rock fragments. Shrubs and trees grow on some huge blocks. The hollow ends with the excavation of the Sophia Saddle. The path to this pass is laid to the left. Waterfalls steam on a 100-meter rocky wall. Ice hangs over them. The ascent to the waterfalls is along moraine scree, eroded by streams and in places covered with subalpine tall grass.

Having climbed to the top of the scree (2500 m) to the waterfalls, you find yourself under a barrage of roar, splashes and icy wind. The apparent accessibility of "mutton's foreheads" is insidious. Ice collapses are possible, especially in the eastern part of the wall. But ice classes are sometimes held on the Bolshaya Sofia Glacier different schools tourist training and sports camps. The route to Sofia (ZB) also passes through it.

Access to the glacier is easier in the western part of the wall along a couloir with a small stream. On a rocky shelf there is a group of young birch trees. We go up to the birch trees and find a narrow shelf going to the left. We traverse the wall along the shelf. Where it breaks, we find another one, half a meter higher. We carefully climb it and continue the traverse. The shelf leads out to an area of ​​“mutton foreheads” that is easy to climb.

M50. Sophia Sedlo pass (2640 m).

The ascent to the Sophia Sedlo follows a good path, is accessible to beginner tourists and gives the opportunity to see the protected Kizgych valley and the peaks of the Marukh gorge from above. From the “Glacier Farm” you need to get out to the ridge of a short spur protruding from the Cheget-Chat massif. The first 200 m are steep, then the ridge flattens out and smoothly leads out into alpine meadows a little to the left and above the lowest point of the pass. As you rise, the bulk of the city of Sofia grows more and more, and more and more details are revealed on its glacier and summit dome. The ascent takes 2-3 hours.

Under your feet is the abyss of the Kizgych valley. At its bottom, among gray pebble shallows and dark forests, a river winds like a white ribbon. Above it stood a steep wall. Uzhum. Along its slopes, between the black wedges of fir trees, thin streams of waterfalls shine silver. Where Uzhum abuts the Main Ridge, L. is visible. Bugoichat and the deep snow saddle - per. Kurellas. The panorama is crowned by the formidable peaks of Kara-Kaya and Marukh-Bashi jutting out in the background.

There is no direct descent to Kizgych; below there are cliffs and deep mudflow ravines. With the introduction of a conservation regime on Kizgych, the path there became very overgrown. You need to go diagonally to the right. The nature of vegetation is changing rapidly. At the ridge on open places she is poor - mosses, rare blades of grass. A little lower on the continuous carpet of grass, blue hyacinths are already generously scattered; at the border of the bushes there are magnificent golden-white lilies. Through the crooked birch forest you need to go to the right to the beginning of the fir wedge. Next there is a steep serpentine road among huge fir trees. The descent from the pass lasts about 3 hours and ends in the Baga-Tala clearing near the reserve house (1570 m).

M51. "Glacier Farm" - r. Ak-Ayry - per. Bash-Jol -r. Psysh (20 km, 1 day).

The route, crossing the Sofia ridge, makes it possible to see from above the panorama of the GKH with the main peaks of Arkhyz and is often used by tourist groups for training and acclimatization. Being at the bottom of the Sofia Gorge, it is impossible to imagine that along its left side stretches a complex multi-tiered labyrinth of side gorges and numerous rock and snow cirques.

The gorge of the river closest to the top of Sofia. Ak-Ayry is the largest and most branched. In the depths of the eastern source there are the Topal-Aush and Ak-Ayry passes, and the western - Bash-Jol and Kel-Aush.

Considering that there is a significant climb ahead, and then no less descent, you need to leave early. On the left bank of Sofia we find ourselves on a path that leads to a crossing to the left bank of Ak-Ayra.

The Ak-Ayry gorge turns out to be quite spacious, especially behind the last fir trees. Here is the kingdom of alpine meadows. At the bottom of the gorge (2000 m) three streams converge, flowing along the ledges of the ancient “ram's foreheads”. The middle one originates in a snow-covered square under the peak of Nadezhda; the eastern one flows steeply from under the lake. Ak-Ayry, falling at the end from a steep wall like a waterfall; the western one breaks out from the continuation of the valley along which we must continue.

We climb a steep slope to a terrace with tall grass between large stones (you can put up tents). Above are ledges of turfed moraines and loose debris. At the beginning of summer, compressed layers of winter avalanches often remain. At the top of the valley a snowy saddle of the lane opens. Bash-Jol (1A, 3048 m). To the right and closer, behind the pyramidal peak of the lane. Kel-Aush, a group of high-mountain lakes is hidden. On the approaches to the lane. Bash-Jol there are snowfields, steep in places.

Finally, a rocky ridge (4-5 hours from the Sofia River). Nearby is the top of Sofia. Behind the deep cut of the Sophia Sedla the green ridges of the ridge. Uzhum. In the west rises the pointed Pshish, decorated with white feathers of snowfields and glaciers. From the pass there is a 100-meter descent into a wide ravine along steep scree or through dense snow that has not yet melted. After 1 km, in a rocky square in the folds of the left slope, there are two lakes (2740 m). One is tiny, the other is about 200 m across.

The direct descent along the stream is dangerous; you need to go to the right in order to follow the scree in an hour to reach the wooded spur to the first pine trees. The serpentine path descends steeply. Fir trees will appear soon. The hour-long descent ends in a beautiful clearing near the river. Psysh (1700 m). Then it is advisable to walk 1.5 km up the valley and use a reliable log to cross to the left bank of the Psysh. On the way there are wonderful birch groves, dense fir forests, clear streams. Above the treetops rises the black tower of the city of Tokmak and the cap of the city of Psysh shining with snow. At the crossing there is a convenient place to spend the night under old fir trees, the so-called. "Fir Shelter" (M37).

M52. Ak-Ayry River - lane. Topal-Aush (Kozhukhova) - Green Lakes (2 days).

The Topal-Aush pass (2A, 3400 m) is clearly visible from the Sofia Valley. As soon as the city of Sofia opens, the snowy saddle at its very top on the right is the highest pass in the region.

In the previous description, we noted the wall of “ram’s foreheads” with the waterfall of the eastern source of the river. Ak-Ayry (to its foot an hour's walk from the Sofia River). The stream begins half a kilometer higher, at the l. Ak-Ayry. The path there is clear: the step of the “ram’s foreheads” goes around the right along the meadow terrace between this and the next ledge of rocks, from which the middle source of Ak-Ayra falls. Then, climbing along gentle rocks, smoothed by an ancient glacier, and now thoroughly turfed rocks, we get out into the upper valley (1.5 hours). There are places for tents, but if we walk another 150 m, we will find a clearing - a green oasis among large moraine deposits (2550 m). This clearing is called by climbers “Spartak nights”.

Already on the approach we see the deceptively close snow-capped dome of Sofia, protruding above the rugged rocky ridge separating the S. Sofia and Ak-Ayry glaciers. Now the tongue of L is also visible. Ak-Ayry in the rock gates. Access to the glacier is more convenient from the left-bank moraine (an hour from the overnight stay). To the right along the way and slightly lower is a vast terrace with streams - a good place for a camp in front of the lane. Ak-Ayry. The path to it is visible to the left of the snowy peak of Mount Nadezhda, which dominates this part of the Sofia ridge.

We cross the closed Ak-Ayry glacier (steepness up to 25°) in the direction of the Sophia dome, looking at the ascent path. The main obstacles are two bergschrunds and a steep snowfield. At the end of summer there may be no snow bridges over the cracks, then the pass will be more difficult. From the exit to the glacier to the lower bergschrund it is a 1.5 hour journey. Higher up the steepness increases and above the next crack reaches 40°. We pass this crack near the rocks of Sofia with alternating belay. Next, you can hang a railing - 90 m. After a long steep climb (from an overnight stay of 5-6 hours), the rocky and snowy saddle of the pass seems spacious and smooth.

In the south, an extensive panorama of the GKH unfolds from the town of Kara-Kaya to the lane. Chamagwara. On the other side of the huge circus rises the city of Chuchkhur-Bashi. To the right of her lane. Chuchkhur, somewhere under it, between the glacier and moraines, hide the Green Lakes. Straight down are sheer crumbling rocks, but to the left a shelf 80 m long goes diagonally to a steep (40°) 150-meter snowfield, descending to the flat firn field of the South Sofia Glacier. Maintaining the height, we cross it to the right, then, when the saddle of the lane opens. Kholodovsky, along the scree we go straight down to the Green Lakes (M41). The entire descent takes about 2 hours. If necessary, you can descend from the glacier directly to the river. Besh-Chuchkhur (long screes, rock ledges).

From the south, determine the exit to the lane. Topal-Aush is more difficult. The lower western col with a snowfield leading almost to the very top attracts. But this is a different lane. Ak-Ayry V. on l. Ak-Ayry. The required pass is located to the right - between the cliff of the top of Sofia and a sharp peak with a split top.

M53. Ak-Ayry glacier - lane. Ak-Ayry - r. Kyshlau-su (1 day).

Bivouac at the “Spartak overnights”, as in the previous route. Then we go west along a stream flowing out from under a large snowfield. Leaving the Ak-Ayry icefall on the left and climbing the moraine ridge (2900 m, 1.5-2 hours from the overnight stay), we find ourselves in front of a vast circus. Surrounded by a crumbling rocky ridge, at its bottom lies a flat glacier, mostly covered with snow. Opposite you can see the triangle of the peak of Nadezhda with patches of snow. To its left is the spacious saddle of the lane. Ak-Ayry (1B, 3150 m), towards which a snowy plain stretches. Narrow cracks do not interfere with movement. In the east, a deepening of the circus opens and a passage to a parallel pass on the river. Besh-Chuchkhur (V. Ak-Ayry). Closer to the ridge, the steepness of the firn increases (more than 30°, about 60 m), and ice may become exposed at the end of summer. The last 20m are easy, cracked rocks. From the pass ridge (3 hours from overnight stay) good review peaks and glaciers around Przysz. Right in front of us is the city of Chuchkhur-Bashi.

An even more interesting picture opens from the top of Nadezhda (1B, 3355 m), rising above the pass from the northwest. You can climb there via easy rocks in half an hour.

Below, under the pass, is the green valley of the river. Kyshlau-su. We begin our descent along small scree, sliding into a steep rocky chute ending in a cliff. Using moving scree we cross the slope further to the west and, going around the cliffs, turn down. There is snow and scree on the way. After 1.5 hours we find ourselves at the bottom of the Kyshlau-su valley. Lawns on the shore of the lake (2730 m) are convenient for camping in front of the lane. Rabbit Ears (M41).

M54. Climbing Mount Nadezhda (1A, 3355 m, 10-12 hours).

Unlike the previous option of climbing the second highest peak of the Sofia ridge, we present a simpler route from the confluence of the three sources of the river. Ak-Ayry (M52). Right along the way we see the waterfall of the middle source of the river and the upper snow cirque above it. Let's go there. We go around the waterfall (2300 m) on the right. Next is a short but very steep gorge. Climbing along the steps of rocks, heaps of stones and grassy shelves leads to a small car filled with snow. Having overcome its rocky wall, we find ourselves on a small flat slope. Sergei Solovyov (2850 m), lying on the slope of Nadezhda. The glacier bears the name of the Moscow climber who was the first to climb this route in 1936.

The path to the top goes along the ridge of the Sofia ridge from the side of the open saddle ahead (1 km). A moderate snowfield leads to the ridge (3050 m). Further ascent to the top requires reliable self-insurance. There are dangerous steep slopes and cliffs on the sides. At first the ridge is not steep, but sharp. Then it seems to split into two. We walk through the snow between the rocks. There is a steep scree in the last meters. From here you have a wonderful all-round view. In the south there is a chain of icy mountains from the top of Chuchkhur-Bashi to the lane. Poachers. From a bird's eye view you can see the routes to the Chuchkhurskaya Shchel, Kizgych Lozhny, Chamagvara, Psysh, Naur, Poachers, and Duritsky passes. In the north are the Abishir-Akhub and Uzhum ridges. Nearby is the snow cap of Sofia. Then we return to L. Solovyova.

Then you can go another, more gentle path. At the foot of the peak you need to go to the l. Ak-Ayry. Its tongue is covered with moraine deposits. From here there is an easy descent along the “ram’s foreheads” to the cliff where the eastern source of Ak-Ayra falls like a waterfall. You go around it to the left towards the waterfall of the middle source.

M55. Ak-Ayry River - lane. Kel-Aush - Upper Sofia Lakes - Kel-Bashi city - r. Ak-Ayry (2-3 days).

Most of the Sofia Lakes are located next to the Ak-Ayry valley. There is a trodden path to the three upper lakes from the Ak-Ayry valley. To reach the upper part of the valley we go the same way as on the lane. Bash-Jol. To the right of it, in the watershed spur between two peaks, we see the saddle of the lane. Kel-Aush (1 A, 2866 m). The ascent to it along scree and a steep grassy slope takes less than an hour (from the Glacier Farm 4 hours). On the other side of the narrow ridge lies the vast stepped circus of the Kashkha-Echki-Chat gorge. At its bottom, among ridges of moraines and smoothed rocks, three lakes rest.

The largest - medium (about 300 m in diameter) - lies right under the pass. A short descent over snow and rocks leads to its shore (2850 m). Even in summer, small ice floes float in clear water, broken off from the surrounding snowfields. Quiet. There are stones, snow and clouds all around. You can easily walk around the lakes in an hour and go down to the valley on the same day. But, of course, it’s more interesting to pitch tents here and see how the depths of the lake turn black with twilight, how the first stars are reflected in it, and then enjoy the brilliance of the morning colors.

From here you can climb to the top of Kel-Bashi (1B, 3251 m), the rocky dome of which hangs over the lakes from the west. The ascent lasts 3 hours. From the upper lake, along a steep scree, we first climb into a pocket with a glacier. Closer to the rocks, the steepness of the firn increases to 45°. The steep ledges of the rear wall of the car are interspersed with inclined shelves, sprinkled with unstable scree (insurance!). Finally a wide rocky ridge (3000 m). From here to the right there is a short and easy path to the top.

The sources of the river open from above. Psysh, peaks of Aksaut, Dombay and Elbrus. Framed by gray screes and dark rocks, like glass inserts in blue and lilac shades, the lakes of neighboring circuses are visible. Below, on the side of Psysh, in a steep-walled square, similar to a volcanic crater, is the dark blue surface of another lake - Craterny. It is heavily shaded and covered with ice until mid-summer (M57).

It is more convenient to return to the camp near the middle lake not by climbing. The descent along the wall of the car to the glacier is much more difficult and dangerous than the ascent. It is better to go down to Crater Lake (snow, ice, scree) and cross the lane. Togai-Jol (M57) north of Kel-Bashi. Then go out to the Sofia side of the ridge (steep scree, maybe snow) and go to the middle lake past the upper one, from which the ascent began.

The descent into the Sofia Valley passes through the lake. Aimatly-Jagaly. The path to it lies past the upper lake, behind which we find a passage in the rocky belt and, maneuvering in the stone labyrinth, we carefully descend to the blue lake visible below. When descending, do not stay on the sidelines for a long time (rockfall!) and use the buttresses more often. Below the rocky belt we find ourselves on an overgrown path. After 1.5 hours from the camp we reach the shore of the lake (2400 m). It lies in the circus framed by green banks. On hot days, the shallow water warms up enough and swimming is a pleasure.

There are 10 km left to the Glacier Farm along the path that goes past the rocks on the left side along a slope overgrown with rhododendron. Soon she dives into the shadow of a fir tree. A stream gurgles to the right. Not far from the place where it flows into the river. Sofia (1.5 hour descent from the lake) we cross to the right bank and follow the right bank path of the Sofia Valley to the crossing of the river. Ak-Ayry.

M56. River valley Sofia - Gammesh-Chat lakes (excursion, 15 km).

To the lakes in the upper reaches of the river. There is a trail from the former tourist shelter "Sofia" (M48) to Gammesh-Chat. The Gammesh-Chat River flows into Sofia (1800 m) slightly above the shelter clearing. Before reaching the river, we delve into a dense fir forest interspersed with deciduous trees and begin our ascent. A river stream makes its way somewhere in a gloomy gorge. We will see it only when we rise above the forest - a white-foamed waterfall in a belt of “ram’s foreheads” covered with curly crooked forest and impenetrable armfuls of rhododendrons. The path climbs steeply to the right and up to emerge over the ledge through tall grass.

A long climb leads to a spacious circus. Sharp peaks with spots of snow and steep walls. Trails of turf-covered scree run downwards. Scattered along the slopes are fragments of rocks, dark flowerbeds of rhododendron thickets and clumps of low-growing birch trees. The bottom of the cirque (2200 m) is occupied by a flat, bright green meadow with almost no flowers - evidence of waterlogging. A transparent river calmly meanders along the green carpet, spilling widely in places. Its bed is lined with flat stones.

The lake is hidden in the bend of a moraine ridge at the eastern edge of the circus. It, like a jewel framed by dense green banks, flickers with blue light. The outlines of huge stones emerge from the darkened depths. A stream from the lake falls from above. Comma, which is still 600 m vertically away.

The first third of the climb, under the wall of “ram’s foreheads” with a waterfall, goes through flowering grasses as tall as a person (bells, elecampane, lilies, columbine, pink knotweed, etc.). On the left remains the dead stone shell of an ancient glacier. Over hundreds of years, the glacial stream, rolling over from the upper circuses, brought thousands of different-sized blocks here. Some are as big as nice house. The glacier gradually retreated and melted, leaving its memory in the form of a stone blockage resembling the tongue of a glacier.

We get out onto the wall from the western side, where it is appropriate. A certain difficulty is presented by the stream falling down the polished steps. The exit to it is along an inclined shelf. Having crossed it, we move through a winding hollow, gaining the last third of the height. Behind the smoothed rock ridge, a rocky cirque with patches of snow patches finally opens up. Below is a fairly large lake, shaped like a comma. Here lies the border of wildlife. Our shore (2800 m) is still covered in places with low grass, while on the opposite shore there is a lifeless scattering of stones and snow. There, on bare rocks, aurochs hide during the day, and at night they come down to graze on these lawns. From here you can go to the lakes in the Kashkha-Echki-Chat tract or go on horseback to the more western gorge of the river. Eaglet (M57).

M57. River Sofia - lane Eaglet - lake Craternoye - lake Comma - lakes Kashkha-Echki-Chat - r. Sofia (16 km, 2 3 days).

The shortest route from Arkhyz to the Sofia ridge goes along the Orlyonok gorge. It, rising steeply to the rocky peak of Karajash with a long thread of waterfall, is visible from the village.

The ascent through the gorge can be an independent 2-day excursion or the beginning of a 3-day hike along the lake cirques of the Sofia Range. Not far from the mouth, at the southern edge of the Taulu clearing, there is a bridge across Sofia (1550 m). The marked trail goes deeper into dense forest and goes high above the river. After 1.5-2 hours we approach the river. An eaglet noisily climbing stone steps and fallen trunks at the bottom of a wooded gorge.

Now up, along the left bank of the stream. The path soon leads out into a green basin under a rock step with a waterfall, above which is the upper continuation of the valley. The path rises to the right. We go around a rocky step along a steep grassy slope and find ourselves on a flat meadow with a mosh (2250 m). It is advisable to stay overnight here. Clear cold water breaks through from under the moraine ridge - the beginning of the river. Eaglet. Behind the rampart lies a dark, deep lake. Surrounded by mossy rocks and old gnarled pine trees, it is quiet.

Early departure the next day. Ahead is the rocky massif of Karajash, a saddle is visible to the right, but this is not a pass yet. At first, a barely noticeable path leads along the left side of the gorge to a group of large boulders. There we turn towards the imaginary saddle. Along the way, under the Karajash rocks, there is a group of small lakes (2500 m). The gorge is again blocked by a ledge. It is convenient to climb it to the left of a steep hollow with snowfields at some distance from the vertical walls of Karajash (rockfall!).

Higher up we reach the final part of the valley (2850 m). There are rocks, screes and snowfields all around. At the bottom we go around the rocky spur of Karadzhash, and there, around the corner, a flat section of the ridge of the Sofia ridge opens - lane. Eaglet (1 B, 3024 m). We climb up it through the snow. When the slope becomes too steep, we move to the left onto scree and simple rocks. On the other side of the pass ridge there is a sheer 200-meter cliff and the blue saucer of Crater Lake. In the south, the GKH snow chain unfolds. Behind the city of Kel-Bashi the lane is visible. Chamagvara, to the right - the black tower of Tokmak, then the peak of Psysh covered with an ice shell and the lowering of the lane. Naur. Closer is the pyramid of Przysz, towering above everything, corroded by cirque glaciers. To the west is the Amanauz-Azimba massif. The panorama is broken by the rock of our ridge. To the right of it, Dukka-Bashi and Temir-Kulak are visible in the distance, and in the north, in the haze, the mountain range. Abishira-Ahuba.

An even more grandiose picture will open from the nearby unnamed peak (1 B, 3180 m). The ascent (0.5 hours) involves easy rocks and screes. Now a view of the entire Sophia ridge, headed by the royal Sophia, is added. When passing the lane. Eaglet is the most difficult section of the route - on the descent. The cliff goes around to the left, where small moving scree slides into a narrow “pipe” in the rocks. You need to be careful not to slip down and knock the stone on those below.

After walking 60 m along the bottom of the couloir, it is safer to get out to the left side and continue descending along the grassy slope to a large scree. There are places for tents on a spacious plain with green lawns (1 hour from the pass). From here it is not far to Crater Lake (2830 m). An easy route to the steep dome of Kel-Bashi (ascent and return) will take 4 hours. A snowfield over the southern shore of Crater Lake will lead to the flat pre-summit ridge. There may be ice at the top of the snowfield (insurance!).

The wide saddle of the lane is clearly visible from below. Togai-Jol (1 A, 3022 m), reached by an easy climb along scree and steps of flat rocks (1 hour). The descent is steep but strong scree or snow. Below there are hilly moraine fields, where closer to the starboard side between two rocky peaks and the hillock of the “ram’s forehead” a lake is hidden. Comma. You can go down to it in less than 1 hour; another 3 hours will be required to descend along the river gorge. Gammesh-Chat to Sofia (M56).

If you plan to go to the lakes in the Kashkha-Echki-Chat tract, then on the descent you need to take a right to the shoulder of Kel-Bashi, visible below, erased by an ancient glacier, separating the lake circuses. A snowfield stretches towards the watershed; a path has been trodden at the top of the rocky ledge. Immediately after the bend (2900 m) we find ourselves on the shore of the upper lake (2835 m) from the Kashkha-Echki-Chat group. These lakes, the path to the Ak-Ayra valley and the upper reaches of the river. Sophia was described earlier (M51). Other routes

For acclimatization, it is interesting to walk lightly along the ridge. Cheget-Chat from Sofia Sedlo to the panoramic city 2970. The route, about 6 km long, runs along the ridge in the zone of 2600-2700 m. Along the way you can see the Sofia ridge rugged with gorges and the deep gorge of the Kizgych valley.

From Sofia Sedlo we first go through the meadows of the Sofia Gorge. At 2970 we climb straight along the ridge, entering from the side of Kizgych. From the top you can see the village of Arkhyz. There is a direct descent to the Sofia road through pastures, screes and a strip of sparse pine forest (steepness 30°). The circular excursion from the Sofia Valley will take 7-8 hours.

The easiest route to the top of Sofia is 2A k. from the Green Lakes side. The Yu. Sofiysky glacier is located under a huge 500-meter summit wall. Tours rest high on the rock ledges during the day. They are often given away by the sound of a broken stone. In the east the glacier is limited by a spur (there are places for tents). From its top, along snowfields and gentle slopes littered with different-sized stones, there is an easy climb in a northern direction to the Sofia ridge (350 m). There is a sharp cliff behind it.

In the depths, surrounded by a palisade of gloomy rock teeth, lies the Great Sofia Glacier. Then we climb up the ridge. Sloping slabs fall steeply to the north, and a sheer crumbling wall to the south. Having climbed 20 m along the edge of a steep snowfield (belay through the sharp teeth of the ridge), we find ourselves on a saddle, or rather, in a gap with a well filled with water. This is a good place to relax.

Having climbed out of the gap, we find ourselves at the tip of the pre-summit ridge. The summit dome is already close ahead. The most difficult and important part of the ascent is the sharp ridge with “gendarmes” (to pass them “head-on” or bypass them over the abyss!) From the top a circular panorama of a significant part of the West opens. Caucasus. The sources of the B. Zelenchuk basin, peaks and passes are visible as on a relief map.

I’m still amazed how we did it all.

And it was like this.

There is such a village in Karachay-Cherkessia - Storozhevaya-2. In essence, this is a military town of seven houses, cut off from the world, forgotten by God and everyone else. People call our town "five". And there is such a profession - to defend the homeland. And people from all over the former live in our town Soviet Union. And in total there are about a thousand of us. And our people are good. So we found each other, who need more than anyone in this life - it’s a pain in the butt, but it will still come out. So they identified each other by this remarkable feature.

The idea of ​​climbing Mount Sofia in Arkhyz was born to my boss a long time ago - back in October 2001 - during an excursion to the Sofia Falls. My boss is a lively, interesting, inquisitive person. In general, he is a very wonderful person. You know, he’s such an entertainer... He himself has been involved in this disastrous business since 1982. The experience is not rich, but significant: conquering Mount Ak-Kaira, participating in competitions for the school of young tourists in the glorious city of Nalchik and for the honor of the Zhytomyr Military School in the Carpathians, climbing Elbrus in 1992 as part of the national team of the “Search” group of the Cuban Military School .

In short, it all started in good health. He once gathered a group of curious and active people and asked: “Do you want it?”

Of course we want! - we answered.

But then there was a bummer: “We don’t take women and children,” he said, bluntly.

How can you not take it? - I got furious. Straightforward gender discrimination.

So they gave me an almost impossible task - to have the appropriate sports uniform. What to do? Fulfill. There is no other way in the army. I had to sweat a little to feel my masculine strength by the appointed time.

Everything would have been fine, but it wasn’t.The boss’s plan took a painfully long time to mature: from the desktop to the physical card, from the physical card to the table. But he was born.

The first attempt to climb Sofia ended in July 2003 with the ascent of Ak-Aira.

N - yes... If you don’t know the ford, don’t poke your nose into the water.

This was our first mountain! What doesn't happen in life!!! Joy mixed with deep disappointment from the unsuccessful ascent to Sofia. The miscalculations of the “main tourist” – our leader – did not allow the dream to come true.

What stupidity.

Meanwhile, the dream became more and more annoying.

I am surprised: the military are interesting people, probably because there is only one gyrus, and even that one is not visible under the cap. And if it’s a little more serious, you get sick. Stubbornness is a good and effective thing. “What does it cost us to build a house?”

And yet, “life is stupid without risk.”

The chief is planning another ascent for July 2004. Eh, Sofia, the beauty, haunts him! “There, beyond the fogs”….

Once again he gives us an idea. We don't all sleep together anymore.

Now everything is different: active collection of information, purchasing equipment, developing a plan, training (!).

N-yes... As soon as I remember, I shudder: a system, a rope, knots, a petal, a figure eight, a jumar, rappelling from the third floor of a dilapidated house, walking in bundles on the asphalt, trying on crampons. In general, you can teach a hare to smoke, as they say. And yet the army training system is the most effective: “If you can’t, we’ll teach you, if you don’t want to, we’ll force you.” We got really good after a week of almost grueling training. And this happens.

And now the historic day has arrived. We got to Sofiyskaya Polyana in our good old “tank” - it’s called KAMAZ (has anyone experienced this “uncontrollable sensation” of driving a KAMAZ? It’s a song!!! It’s worth a try).

Eh, people, people... What are you missing in your life???

Our support group was wonderful. They remained down at base camp;

They faithfully waited for us for two days, diluting their cheerful loneliness with fried meat and alcohol.

Heavy rain at night, followed by hail, disrupted all plans. Instead of four in the morning we got up at seven. And for another hour and a half we thought: what to do next? As we looked at Sofia from her foot - dear mother, where is she taking us - the clouds cover her completely, no white light is visible. . In general, we were delicately invited to stay.

Our leader decided to storm the summit head-on along a snowy couloir. And this happens.

Our work is small: said and done.

The ascent took 9 hours. We never reached the top. We reached the ridge. And it’s a stone’s throw away, the sweet peak. BUT! After consulting, the group decided to begin the descent. What a peak there is, when the wind rises, the rain begins to drizzle, and the time is already 17.30.

While we were throwing a meager dinner into our empty stomachs, the boss (damn him) still “ran” to the top without telling anyone anything. Well, at least he left his glasses on the cross... grief as a souvenir, but he frightened us with his absence (and he was absent for only 25 minutes, which seemed like an eternity to us).

At 18.00 we began our descent. Of the entire ascent, he probably left the most strikingsensations. I will remember it for the rest of my life: wind, rain, hail, clouds bearing down on us, the beginning of a thunderstorm, the lack of flashlights and radio communications. Communication with my comrades at the “overnight camp” was interrupted at night when the radio got wet.

We all went down (at 2.30 a.m.) - every single one of us: no injuries, no damage, justangry as bastards, exhausted, exhausted, wet to the skin.

The next morning, or rather this very morning, we went down to Sofia Glade - to the base camp.

Several months later, I remember this nightmare with horror. There were a lot of impressions: from the wonderful army boots and crampons on them (19 hours in such boots is a fairy tale!); from the sensations when everything around you is thundering and sparkling, and there is nowhere to hide, when you yourself begin to glow in the dark; from horror when you don’t know where to go, and there’s only one flashlight for ten people; from fear for a friend whose engine is malfunctioning, and from much more. How I remember where and how we were carried!.. But it was not we who suffered the hardest thing, but those who waited at the “dog sleepovers” - the lack of communication almost drove them crazy.

And I still can’t answer myself some questions:

What was it - the greatest stupidity, a stupid adventure, a desire to prove something to someone?
- how could this even be?
- how did our leader dare to take on such responsibility - to drag along inexperienced guys (who know nothing and can’t do anything) and in such numbers?
- how did we decide to do this?

It's so good that it all ends. We were lucky - everything ended well. Everyone is alive andhealthy. But it could have been different.

R Fuck, don't start with this. We're just lucky . We approached this event fearlessly. But we should be afraid of the mountains: they are stronger than us, even the smallest, most defenseless. They learn from mistakes. There is no need for heroism or thoughtless struggle. Less is more.

Nature warns - it is better to wait out the bad weather.

You just need to be stronger than yourself and your crazy desires. And knowledge is power.

And the most interesting thing is that it didn’t end there: In two weeks - August 1 -our leader finally replaced his glasses with the prescribed note, and together with him, my husband and I experienced the unforgettable delight of a successful ascent, which pleased us with wonderful weather and meeting with tours at “dog sleepovers”. All three days while we were there, they fed from us.

And the number of people matters in this hopeless cause. It's much easier with three people.

The ascent (along the same route) took only 8 hours (4 hours to the top, 3 hours to descend, 1 hour to the top).

And I don’t want to end there yet. On September 13 we conquered the city of Nadezhda, onwhich we went to consolidate the effect. But there were already four of us - another “hopeless” joined us.

In conclusion, I would like to remember all those who almost ascended, those who were united by this campaign: Serega Skvortsov with his girlfriend Kira, Lesha Kolesnichenko, Kolya Popov, Valera Mamalyga, Sashka Nekrashevich, Anton Koryakov, my husband, Andrey Abramov, and me. I would especially like to highlight our leader - Lieutenant Colonel Yuri Anatolyevich Pererva. He’s such a great guy: he comes up with something, and then we suffer. And those who were waiting for us at the “dog sleepovers” frantically stoked the primus stove to simulate a lighthouse and shone flashlights so that we could see where to go.

Ah, "officers, officers..."