Modeling a tulip from cold porcelain. Master class on creating tulips from polymer clay. To create tulips we need
brushes and thinner. 
Let's start with the base for the tulip. Take the wire and bend a small loop. The base will be the middle. To do this, we need an example from the book to see. It is quite complex, it has two parts - the green main one and the light stamens. Mix a light green color, the shade should be very light. Roll out a drop. The top of the drop should be flatter, that is, it should have a base on top, and we fix it on the wire. To do this, be sure to coat the wire loop with latex glue. We hide our hook, correct the shape, we can stretch it out a little.
Next, we make small cuts with a scalpel. There are 6 of them. The most convenient way is to divide them in half, and then each half into two more parts. The main workpiece is ready. We leave it to dry while we make the stamens of the tulip. To do this, mix a little yellow. Again, the color should be subtle. We want it to be a very light shade. We make 6 stamens from it. Take a small drop polymer clay- less than a pea. I roll it out and flatten the top a little. We bend it a little. This is how we create the remaining 5 stamens.
The stamens are ready, now they need to be glued. They haven’t had time to dry yet, so they will stick fairly quickly. We coat the base of the stamen with glue, then glue it onto our workpiece. Please note that we glue the stamens so that each of them lies between the cut. We made cuts on the green part so that they matched. We still have a little more of the same yellow clay left, and we will glue three grains on top. We take pieces even smaller than for stamens. We roll them out a little so that they are elongated, and divide them in half with a scalpel. We apply glue on one side, remove it from the scalpel and glue it to the top of our base.
Try to keep all the stamens of the tulip about the same size. This is what we got. The tops of the stamens must be painted black. But we do not paint them with paint, but use carbon powder for this. Take carbon powder and mix a little latex glue with it. And now we apply this composition to our stamens. Apply only on top. Using powder rather than paint will give the stamens a natural and natural look. In the end, we got this center for the tulip. We will leave it to dry for now and move on to the tulip leaves.
For the leaves, we will mix green viridon paint into polymer clay. We tear off required quantity and roll it out. We start, as always, with a drop. Because The leaves will be long, you need to pull out the drop a little. Let's crush it a little and roll it out. Make the tips of the leaves thinner and the base a little thicker. Using a stack we correct the shape. If you don't succeed, you can always correct it with scissors. Trim the tip of the sheet a little so that it is a little sharper, then roll it out again.
I print the resulting sheet onto the mold, and now it needs to be glued to the twenty-fourth wire. The wire can be cut into three parts or in half. We cut it into three parts. Since the leaf is quite long, we coat the wire with longer glue. Fold the sheet in half and glue the wire. Remove excess glue. Now all that remains is to dry the sheet. We leave it to dry so as to give the sheet a curved shape. Using the same method we make the second sheet, you can make it larger or smaller, it’s at your discretion, just don’t forget if you do large leaf tulip, then glue most of the wire to the sheet. 
Now we will create the tulip bud itself, for this we will mix cadmium yellow medium into polymer clay. A tulip has approximately six petals. For clarity, we will roll out one petal; you will already make the remaining five yourself. Take the required amount of clay. The diameter of the piece is approximately one and a half centimeters. Roll it out into a small droplet. The top of the droplet is not very sharp. And at the base you need to make a small leg. I flatten the drop a little and pull out the leg. Thus, we try to repeat the shape of the petal.
Now let's roll it out. Try to keep the stem a little thicker than the entire petal. You can see the shape of the petal on the petal mold. That is, we need to approximately repeat the shape of the mold. If you end up with something uneven, just trim off all the uneven parts.
Now we need to make the petal three-dimensional; for this we need a stack of balls. Using rotational movements, we apply more pressure at the base, and weaker pressure towards the top of the petal, so that the bulge is smaller. Now you can look at it from the side. At the base the petal should be more convex.
Now we print it on the mold. We remove it from the mold; the upper edges of the petal can be folded inwards towards the center. We leave it to dry. We need to make six of the same petals. And when the six petals are ready, they should already be semi-dry, you can start gluing them. They need to be taken apart, if some are smaller, then they will go first row.
Petal base coat with latex glue. And carefully glue it to the middle. While we are gluing, we leave the bud upside down so that the leaves are fixed well. The tulip's petals are glued in two rows of three petals, so it is necessary to evenly distribute every three. Try to align all the petals with the top of the petals. The second row is glued in a checkerboard pattern relative to the first.
For painting leaves we will need two paints: cadmium yellow medium and grass green. And also two brushes. We will apply paint with one, and dry with the second, we will shade it. We take a leaf. First, let's apply the main green tone. We take very liquid paint, almost watercolor. On a damp sheet, all the paint will be easier to apply. We get a base to match the color. Use a dry brush to blend it out a little. Now we darken the base and center of the sheet. Apply yellow paint to the top and side edge. The main thing is to shade all the paint well so that brush strokes are not visible. We practically do not use thinner here. We work with a semi-dry brush. The base can be darkened a little more. WITH reverse side The paint scheme is approximately the same. We also apply the base. And now we have two sheets.
In this master class I want to talk not only about creating tulips from polymer clay, but also show how you can play with them and create original decoration in the form of a pendant, where the tulips will be collected into a bouquet and fixed with epoxy resin in a glass jar. This pendant will remind you of spring and add femininity and freshness to your look. The lesson is not at all difficult, so even a beginner can master it without difficulty and create an extraordinary decoration with his own hands.
Materials and tools involved in sculpting:
1. Polymer clay purple, pink, light green, white, lilac;
2. Blade or stationery knife;
3. Stack with a needle;
4. Glass decorative jar;
5. Epoxy resin;
6. Disposable syringe;
7. Wire with a diameter of 0.5 mm, round nose pliers;
8. Chain with small link, carabiner lock, extension;
9. Varnish for polymer clay.
So, let's start sculpting:
1. First you need to prepare a frame for flowers: measure a wire 4-5 cm long, cut it and prepare five such short wires. Using pliers, you need to make a loop on one side of each wire.
2. Make six drops from white polymer clay: three drops 5 mm long and 3 drops slightly larger - 7-8 mm.
3. Each drop should be flattened with your fingers and, using the edge of a needle or toothpick, longitudinal grooves should be made on the surface of the clay of each petal in a random order.
4. The wire loop should be covered with a small piece of white clay.
5. Now we first wrap three small petals around this small piece of clay (to create a closed bud), and then cover it with large petals.
6. You can create tulips of the same color, or you can take clay of different shades and make five tulips of different colors.
7. Now the stem of the flowers needs to be covered with light green plastic in an even layer along the entire length of the stem.
8. From green polymer clay you need to form an oblong drop and use the wide edge of a needle or toothpick to make a longitudinal central groove along the entire length of the drop - these will be the leaves with which you need to decorate the stem.
9. Bend the tulip stems slightly and attach one green leaf to each stem, as close to the flower as possible.
10. Place the flowers in a glass jar so that the stems touch the bottom. Place a bouquet of flowers in the oven without removing them from the jar for firing.
11. While the flowers are being fired in the oven, prepare the epoxy resin by mixing the necessary components according to the instructions.
12. After firing, allow the product and the glass jar to cool completely. Fill a disposable syringe with some epoxy resin and use a needle to pour it inside the glass jar. Place the jar in a dry, warm place for 24 hours - during this time the resin will completely harden. Apply varnish to the flowers and stems.
13. Stretch and secure a thin chain around the neck of the jar using connecting rings and secure an extension and a carabiner lock at its ends.
An original pendant in the shape of a vase with a bouquet of tulips is ready!
In this tutorial I'll show you how to make a necklace and brooch with realistic tulips using polymer clay!
I’ll say right away that the work ahead is not easy and is very voluminous and painstaking!
To create tulips we will need:
1. Polymer clay:
- green in different shades
- translucent plastic
- white clay
- plastic in a pink or any other shade (red, crimson, purple, yellow, etc.)
- dark brown plastic for stamens.
2.
Mold for tulip petals, double-sided;
3.
One and a half turns of memory wire;
4.
Yellow and green pastels for tinting the pestle;
5.
Floral wire;
6.
Thin blade;
7.
Knife;
8.
Brush;
9.
Scissors;
10.
Various modeling tools;
11.
Rolling pin;
12.
Pasta machine;
13.
Translucent liquid plastic or gel;
14.
Glass from a photo frame.
Creating a necklace consists of several stages:
creating tulip buds (tulip petals, pistil+stamens and assembly into buds) – 1 baking
creating green leaf leaves of a flower (mixing colors + creating a sausage with longitudinal stripes)
preparing the base for a necklace - wrapping memory wire in plastic
necklace assembly + 2 baking.
When creating this necklace, I mainly used plastic from Premo and Scalpi, and also mixed in a little Fimo and Kato. I baked the products at a temperature of 130+ degrees for 15-20 minutes. The petals, leaves and stem turned out to be strong and bendable.
So let's get started!
1. The first stage is the creation of buds for the future necklace and brooch.
First you need to prepare a cane blank with a color transition to create more realistic petals! These can be different options, from two or more colors.
I prepared several versions of such sausages: white-pink, white-purple, white-raspberry-pink and white-raspberry-white :) I also made black and red!
I will not show the full process of creating these sausages - you can find these lessons on the Internet and use the one you like :) For example, I used Rusalina’s lesson on sculpting a lotus from polymer clay.
So, I divided the sausage with a color transition for the tulip petals into two parts: one thicker, the other thinner. For one bud we need three small and three large petals. We cut our sausage into slices, about one and a half millimeters thick. And flatten them with your fingers into a petal shape. Next, we place the cake between the mold for the petal and press it quite firmly on all sides - open it, give it a three-dimensional shape and lightly press the edge at the base.
We do this for all the petals and put them aside to “rest.” I made three buds: two for the necklace and one for the brooch.
First, I mixed green and translucent polymer clay 1 to 2 to give the pestle a more natural “glow” look.
We take a floral wire approximately 8 cm long, use round teeth to twist a small loop at the end and place a drop of polymer clay on it and use tools to form a pestle.
Next, we roll strips of the same plastic (1 cm) - 6 pieces and apply them to our pestle - these will be the stamens, the ends of which we lubricate liquid plastic. We also need to tint our pestle - with a brush we apply dry pastels of yellow and green colors!
And now we make the second part of the stamen - dark brown. To make dark brown, I mixed black with red (since I didn’t have any brown)). I rolled out a thin sausage and cut into 6 small pieces, shaped them and placed them on our stamens, greased with liquid plastic!
Pistils and stamens for three tulips are ready!
Now let's start assembling the tulip!
First, we apply three small petals and press them well at the base, and then three larger petals. In mine they slightly overlap one another, with the center of the large petals falling at the junction of two small petals.
I bake the buds upside down on the earring display 😉 I bake them for 15 minutes at 130 degrees.
2. The second stage is the creation of tulip leaves.
For this I used different shades of green and one of these colors, for example dark, I mixed 1k1 with translucent.
This striped sausage can be created in different ways.
3. The third stage is preparing the base of the stem for the necklace.
Mix different shades green plastic, which we prepared for work at the beginning and roll it out on a pasta machine into a long strip 1mm thick. We cut strips approximately 1 cm wide and 10 cm long - this way it will be more convenient for us to wrap the wire in plastic. And then we glue the wire along its entire length. Then we press well and roll our base between our palms step by step, trying to give an even, smooth surface. We cut off the excess. Let’s “rest” - you can lay out photo frames on glass, lightly pressing the base against the glass.
We also prepare the flowers - we wrap the wire with polymer clay. The first flower will be short - 1 cm, the second - approximately 5 cm long.
4. The fourth stage is assembling the necklace.
Our base for the necklace can be rolled on glass one more time - giving a perfectly smooth surface for the stem. Next we take small flower(I have it in the middle of three) and carefully attach it to our stem from one edge. We smooth the base of the flower well with our fingers and various tools. And so we send it off to bake! Along with the base, I bake the second flower for the necklace, as well as the flower for the brooch, the length of which is 8 cm including the bud.
After the blank for the necklace has cooled, I attach the first leaf to it, then the second flower and again the leaf - I cover the tip of the stem of the second tulip with it! Of course, I lubricate all this with liquid translucent plastic :)
Also, I attach two leaves to the flower for the brooch and bake everything again! 15-20 minutes at the desired temperature. By the way, leaves for brooches can be baked in two stages - first glue one sheet, bake, and then the second!
For the brooch, attach a metal clasp and bake again.
My necklace is ready! I really liked making tulips, so I made as many as 6 necklaces, as well as a hair clip, a ring and brooches. I hope everything was clear and you liked my lesson! Thanks for watching and good luck in your creativity!
What to give women on the festive spring day of March 8? Every lady on this day expects to see her special attention and, as a rule, a charming bouquet of flowers. Tulips have become a kind of symbol of this holiday. And all women somehow instinctively expect to receive a bouquet of these flowers as a gift. After all, such a gift once again emphasizes and reminds that winter is over and has given way to spring. Dear ladies, this master class is for you.
Materials and tools
How to make tulips from polymer clay with your own hands? Step-by-step instructions for children and adults.
Pistil and stamens.
1. Take a piece of cold porcelain (HF). Add some green oil paint and some yellow to give it a slightly greenish tint. Then knead thoroughly, as if you were working with plasticine. Prepare three pieces.
2. From a piece with a diameter of 0.6 mm, roll a drop of this shape.
3. Using a toothpick, make these indentations. Roll out three ovals with a diameter of 2 mm.
4. Glue it to the workpiece, make indentations.
5. Prepare the stamens. Add a little yellow paint to the remaining mixture and mix. Roll a sausage 60 mm long and 2 mm in diameter. Divide into six equal parts. Take one part, make an elongated drop, bend it, and make a depression in the upper part. One stamen is ready. We make five more such blanks.
6. Glue the stamens to the pistil.
Petals
1. Take a small piece of cold porcelain (CP) and divide it in half. Paint one piece of HF pink. To do this, add a small amount of pink paint to the first piece and stir thoroughly. Add white paint to the second piece of HF. You will need two colors in order to get a “marble pattern”.
2. Roll two sausages.
3. Wrap these sausages into a spiral.
4. Roll into a ball.
5. Then roll the ball into a sausage and twist it again into a spiral to get a marble effect. Tear the sausage into 6 parts and immediately put these parts into the salafan ( cold porcelain dries quickly in air).
6. Roll one of the parts into a flat cake 2mm thick. Cut out a petal according to the template. Using a mold, seal the texture of a tulip petal.
7. Corrugate the edge of the petal with a toothpick.
8. Make six such blanks and dry for an hour.
9. Let's start assembling the tulip. Glue three petals around the stigma with stamens.
10. Then glue the outer petals in a checkerboard pattern. Let the product hang dry for several hours.
Stem and leaves
1. Roll the tulip stem with green porcelain. Roll between palms for smoothness and dry.
2. Roll out a 3mm thick plate from green CF to the size of the template. Cut out the sheet according to the template. Using a mold, seal the texture of the tulip leaf and roll the edges with a toothpick. Make the second sheet in the same way.
3. Glue the leaves to the stem and dry for several hours. The tulip flower is ready.
4. We will prepare 11 of these flowers for the bouquet.
Vase for tulips
1. Take any vessel that is suitable in shape and size for your bouquet. (glass or plastic bottle, children's jug).
2. Tear pieces of white napkin measuring 7cm long and 5cm wide. Cover the vessel in 3-4 layers and dry.
3. For decoration, take iris, millet threads and 8mm pearl half beads. Think over the pattern and glue the threads and millet first. Paint with acrylic pearl enamel and dry. Using Moment glue, glue the white bead halves under the pearls.
4. If you chose a dark vase. Prepare currant blanks from cold porcelain and glue them. Use threads to create some kind of floral design.
5. Paint the vase acrylic paint black, dry.
6. Then use a piece of foam rubber to stamp the entire surface with bronze-colored acrylic pearlescent enamel and decorate with red rhinestones.
7. DIY polymer clay flowers are ready!
To create a tulip we need :
- polymer clay,
- main stack,
- stack with big balls,
- scalpel,
- manicure scissors,
- round pliers,
- wire number 16,
- wire number 24,
- latex glue,
- floral tape,
- mold texture of tulip flower
- carbon powder,
- oil paints,
- brushes and thinner.
Next, we make small cuts with a scalpel. There are 6 of them. The most convenient way is to divide them in half, and then each half into two more parts. Here the main workpiece is ready. We leave it to dry while we make the stamens of the tulip. To do this, mix a little yellow. Again, the color should be subtle. We want it to be a very light shade. We make 6 stamens from it. Take a small drop of polymer clay - less than a pea. I roll it out and flatten the top a little. And we bend it a little. This is how we create the remaining 5 pieces of stamens.
The stamens are ready, now they need to be glued. They haven’t had time to dry yet, so they will stick fairly quickly. We coat the base of the stamen with glue and glue it to our workpiece. Please note that I glue the stamens so that each of them lies between the cut. That is, we made cuts on the green part so that they matched. We still have a little more of the same yellow clay left, and we will glue it on top, here, here, at the end, three grains. We take pieces even smaller than for stamens. We roll them out a little so that they are more elongated, and cut them in half with a cutter. Apply a little glue on one side, remove it from the cutter and glue it to the top of our base.
Try to ensure that all the stamens of the tulip are approximately the same size. This is what we got: now the stamens, the tops of the stamens need to be painted black. But we do not paint them, but use carbon powder for this. Take carbon powder and mix a little latex glue with it. And now we apply this composition to our stamens. Apply only on top. Using powder rather than paint will give the stamens a natural and natural look. In the end, we got this center for the tulip. We will leave it to dry for now and move on to the tulip leaves.
For the leaves, we will mix green grass paint into polymer clay. Tear off the required amount and roll it out. We start, as always, with a drop. Well, since the leaves will be long, we need to immediately pull out our droplet a little. So that you have such a long drop. Let's crush it a little and roll it out. Make the tips of the leaves thinner and the base a little thicker. Use a stack to correct the shape. If you don't succeed, you can always correct it with scissors. Trim the tip of the sheet a little so that it is a little sharper, then roll it out again.
I print the resulting sheet onto the mold texture, and now it needs to be glued to the twenty-fourth wire. The wire can be cut into three parts or in half. We cut it into three parts. Since the leaf is quite long, we will apply a little longer glue to the wire. Fold the sheet in half a little and glue in the wire. Remove excess glue. Now all that remains is to dry the sheet. We leave it to dry so as to give the sheet a curved leaf shape. Using the same method, we make the second sheet, you can make it larger or smaller, it’s at your discretion, just don’t forget, if you make a large tulip sheet, then glue most of the wire to the sheet.
Now we will create the tulip flower bud itself; for this we will mix yellow oil paint into polymer clay. A tulip has approximately six petals. For clarity, we will roll out one petal; you will already make the remaining five yourself. Take the required amount of clay. This is approximately the size of two beans. The diameter of the piece is about a centimeter and a half. Roll it out into a small droplet. The top of the droplet is not very sharp. And at the base you need to make a small leg. I flatten the drop a little and pull out the leg. Thus, we try to repeat the shape of the petal.
Now let's roll it out. Try to keep the stem a little thicker than the entire petal. You can see the shape of the petal on the petal mold. That is, we need to approximately repeat the shape of the mold. If you end up with something uneven, just trim off all the uneven parts.
Now we need to roll out just the volume; for this we will need a stack of balls. Using rotational movements, apply more pressure at the base, and apply weaker pressure toward the top of the petal so that there is less convexity there. Here you can look at it from the side. At the base of the petal you should get it more convex.
Now we print it on the mold. We remove it from the mold; the top can thus be bent a little, folded in the center, the edges slightly bent inward. And I leave it to dry. We need to make six of the same petals. And when the six petals are ready, they should already be semi-dry, you can start gluing them. They need to be taken apart, if some are smaller, then they will go first row.
Coat the base of the petal with latex glue. And carefully glue it to the middle. While we are gluing, we leave the bud upside down so that the leaves are fixed well. The tulip's petals are glued in two rows of three petals, so you need to evenly distribute every three. Try to align all the petals with the top of the petals. The second row is glued in a checkerboard pattern relative to the first.
To paint the leaves I will need two paints. Yellow - I use cadmium yellow medium. And grassy green. We will need two brushes. We will apply paint with one, and use the second, dry one, to shade it. Take a piece of paper. To begin with, I will apply this basic green tone. We take the paint very thinly for now, almost like watercolor. Already on a damp sheet, all the paint will be easier to apply. We get such a base to match the color. Use a dry brush to blend it out a little. Now darkening the base and slightly the center of the sheet. And apply yellow paint to the top and side edge. The main thing is to shade all the paint well so that brush strokes are not visible. Here we practically do not use any thinner. We work with a semi-dry brush. The base can be darkened a little more. On the reverse side the painting scheme is approximately the same. We also apply the base. And now we have two such sheets.
All we have to do is make a stem for the tulip and screw the leaves to it. For the stem we mix one, but a little lighter than for the leaves, using the same grass green. Take a piece of polymer clay and roll it into a long sausage. Try to roll it out evenly in width and keep in mind that tulips have rather thick stems, so the sausage should not be thin.
Now we flatten it. Coat with latex glue. Take a tulip and, starting from the very base, glue all the clay. Here we glued the stem to the level from where we screw the leaves. You can roll the stem a little on the edge of the table to make it more even, and blur the seam a little with water. We also need to carefully level the base, using a table, lower it a little into the water, wet it, and bring the clay under the base.
When the stem dries, screw the leaves to it, slightly tint the base of the bud with green grass paint (more thinner) and apply it to the base. Lightly blend with a dry brush. So we go through all the petals. Make sure you don't have any dirt or visible brush strokes. Now you can screw the leaves to the tulip, take a small piece of tape and cut it in half and start screwing it from the small leaf, slightly bending it from the stem. Then we also fasten the second large tulip leaf with floral tape. To firmly fix the tulip leaves, we wrap the tape again until the end of the wire.
As a result, we get a Tulip flower that is almost indistinguishable from a real one. In our case, it is durable and will not lose its beauty over time.
